Stay At...Dos Casas, a great B&B in a colonial home with contemporary furnishings. 011-52-415-154-4073; livingdoscasas.com. To rent a house, contact Katharine Hibberts. 646-536-7634; premiersanmiguel.com.

Have Lunch At...El Pegaso, a restaurant with a diverse menu. 011-52-415-152-1351.

People-Watch At...Jardín, San Miguel de Allende's main square, which has fruit stands and newspaper vendors. Mariachi bands play there in the evening, and on Sunday it's filled with families.

Shop At...Mitu, a little store that I opened with a friend. We sell antiques and colonial-style furniture with vintage finishes. 011-52-415-117-9431.

Dine At...Ristorante Da Andrea, an Italian place in a hacienda outside town. It's open Thursday through Sunday. 011-52-415-120-3481.

Don't Miss...the passion plays on Good Friday and Santuario de Atotonilco, a church in Guanajuato with superb murals.

Salsa Dance At...Mama Mía's, a restaurant-bar with live music. Everyone goes there. 011-52-415-152-2063.

Published on 3/1/2006