Stay At...the Portman Ritz-Carlton for its central location. 800-241-3333; ritzcarlton.com.

Always Carry...an address card. The Ritz gives guests one with popular destinations written in English and in Mandarin to give to cab drivers.

Pack...a favorite item of clothing to have copied by a tailor at the fabric market. A custom shirt costs less than $20 and a cashmere blazer about $100. Remember that it takes a few days to make a garment, and be sure to spend time choosing your fabric; quality varies widely. Open 9 to 6. Dongjiadu Rd. at Zhongshan Nan Rd.

Visit...the Shanghai Museum (shanghaimuseum.net), in the People's Square, which has impressive jade and bronze collections.

Stop for Drinks At...Yongfoo Élite, a villa in the French Concession. It's a private club, but your concierge can make a reservation. 011-86-21-5466-2727.

End the Day...as locals do: with an hourlong foot massage.

Published on 5/1/2006