Beaches and Beach Tavernas
By day, Mykonos is all about the beach. With more than thirty beaches to choose from, you can easily try a new one daily, but most people pick a few and get familiar. Take fashion designer Kokosalaki's advice and "avoid all places with 'paradise' in the name."
Psarou Yachts are always moored off this popular spot. Through connections, regulars reserve the famously hard-to-get sun beds and umbrellas that cover the narrow, sandy southwestern cove; others stake their claim by taking possession early in the day.
But it's not just the multihued water or sheltered location that draws the crowds; it's also nearby Nammos, one of the island's most fashionable eateries. Ideal both for Mykonos's signature three-hour lunches and for romantic dinners, Nammos is smart without being formal. The wooden floor, the tables and the rattan chairs are white, the walls a delicate aqua. Knots of straw hang from the pergola-like terrace ceiling, and big pots hold long green stalks of bamboo. You can eat grilled bread and tapenade while you peruse the typically Mykonian menu: fresh salads; tuna tartare with lime; risotto with lobster, shrimp and pumpkin; steamed mussels; and a daily fish special. Reservations recommended. 228-902-2440.
Panormos There are no sun beds on this beautiful crescent of soft white sand, surrounded by small dunes on the windier north side of the island and facing east. Less crowded and more laid-back than Psarou, Panormos attracts couples and families. Nearby is the bohemian-chic Panormos Beach Bar and Restaurant, a sort of lean-to protected by a net roof that casts a mosaic of shadows on its sand floor.
The colorful furnishings include enormous leather beanbags in vivid pink and orange, wooden tables, tinkling shell mobiles and pots of geraniums. Out front, Ruth Karakasidu, a striking blonde, sells Brazilian bikinis and African pareos. Atmospheric music plays, but never loud enough to distract, as the waitstaff, in orange T-shirts, serves pitchers of frozen cocktails. The menu keeps regulars happy for days by featuring mussels with fennel, ouzo and dill; a large variety of salads; and filet mignon with truffle sauce. The restaurant is also open for dinner and is even more magical at night. 228-902-5182.
Agios Sostis This beach, just up the road from Panormos, is situated in a picturesque small bay that is less sheltered and therefore can be windy (again, there are no sun beds). One of the island's most authentic and pretty seaside tavernas is here, hidden under a roof of tree branches and leaves. The secret taverna purposely has no sign, menu or phone number. No matter; finding it on your own makes a meal there that much more rewarding.
Fokos If Psarou is for the diva wearing Dolce & Gabbana sunglasses and Panormos is for the chic bohemian in the glittering caftan, Fokos, in the north, is for those who want neither scene nor dress code. The trip there is long and bumpy, but you arrive at a natural paradise: a sandy cove encircled by rocky outcroppings, fields of small wildflowers and miles of ocean.
A match for its rustic environs is the simple white Fokos Taverna, which offers a flavorful broccoli salad with nuts and raisins; lentils with olives, cucumber, feta and herbs; and grilled calamari with white beans and peppery arugula, among other delicious dishes. 694-582-8561.
