
When I met Paul Zuest, managing director of the Chatham Bars Inn,
in New York last month, he was going on about the virtues of his newly
renovated resort at the elbow of Cape Cod, especially about its spa and
its fine-dining options.
"You can have all the best dishes from the restaurants of Europe," he
said in his German-accented English (Zuest hails from Switzerland). He
paused. "Of course, you can also order a lobster roll," he said, with a smile, quite bemused at this New England phenomenon that has not extended beyond our shores.
He
needn't have worried that roll-lovers would be settling for less than
the best. Last week, under the blue-and-white-striped awning at the
inn's Beach House Grill,
I took on the $24 lobster roll -- "mound" is a better word for it, with
succulent pieces of meat falling out of a brioche bun. As I stared out
at the harbor seals congregating on a distant sandbar, trying to eat
this lunch with something resembling proper decorum, I couldn't help
but think that I was enjoying the ultimate Cape Cod luxury experience (complete with malt vinegar for the french fries)...