Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek Gets a Makeover

From left, Lynn McBee, Kimberly Schlegel Whitman and Janie Cooke enjoy lunch at the Mansion on Turtle Creek's restaurant, one of their favorites in the Big D.

Stephen Karlisch

The success of any makeover depends on its ability to preserve the best and update the rest. At Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek's restaurant, long shepherded by Dean Fearing and now looked after by chef John Tesar, the wrappings are off a major renovation, and the result is a contemporary yet classic culinary experience that shakes the dust from the most celebrated dining destination in Dallas.

The coffered ceilings and cathedral doors endure, now accented by gilt edges and cove lighting. The linen tablecloths are gone, but in their place are dark Macassar-ebony tables.

For Tesar, formerly of RM in New York and Las Vegas, the highlight of the $25 million hotel-and-restaurant face-lift is not the look but the food. You can still order the eatery's famed tortilla soup, but Tesar has introduced dishes such as East Texas guinea fowl and grilled, braised short ribs that are based on his own interpretation of modern American cuisine made with regional ingredients. 2821 Turtle Creek Boulevard; 214-443-4747; mansiononturtlecreek.com.