Most dishes at Café Boulud (301 Australian Ave.; 561-655-6060), chef Daniel Boulud's restaurant at the Brazilian Court hotel, are also offered at his New York flagship, but the setting is pure Palm Beach (with a touch of the south of France). The dining room is lovely and intimate, and the outdoor courtyard has a bubbling fountain. Connoisseurs appreciate Boulud's innovative mix of traditional and interpretive fine French fare.
The family-run Chez Jean-Pierre (132 N. County Rd.; 561-833-1171) serves consistently good French bistro dishes in a setting with crisp white linens on the tables and whimsical artwork on the walls. Jean-Pierre Leverrier presides over the kitchen with his son, Guillaume, preparing such specialties as Dover sole meunière and sea bass with Champagne sauce (many regulars don't even bother with the menu). Save room for the profiteroles au chocolat.
At the Palm Beach Grill (340 Royal Poinciana Way; 561-835-1077), entrées include rotisserie chicken, New York strip steak and aged Black Angus filet mignon. Most memorableand perfect for sharingare the homemade Key lime pie and the hot fudge sundae. Drop by earlier for a drink and join an energetic crowd that is always loud and fun. (Reservations for dinner should be made well in advance.)
A more serene atmosphere can be found at Renato's (87 Via Mizner; 561-655-9752), which is housed in a Mediterranean-style villa and has an extremely devoted clientele; ask for a table in the romantic courtyard. The menu is classic Italian with an extensive selection of seafood dishes. Try the African lobster tail on fresh linguini in a fennel-saffron broth.
My home away from home on nights when the thought of cooking doesn't appeal is 264 the Grill (264 S. County Rd.; 561-833-6444). Located in Palm Beach's business district, the casual place attracts young professionals who take pleasure in the unfussy choices, which include pork chops with corn-bread stuffing and honey-glazed ribs. The formal coach house in which the grill is situated was designed by Addison Mizner in the 1920s.
For an intimate night out in West Palm Beach, head to the Painted Horse Café (2417 S. Dixie Hwy.; 561-833-1490), which is run by Ken and Penny Kuzmenko. The service is attentive, the ambiance cozy (there are several individually decorated rooms, one with a white stone fireplace) and the wine list selective. The braised short ribs and the fresh fettuccine with grapes and Gorgonzola sauce are popular, as are the homemade ice creams and sorbets.
For a terrific breakfast on the go (or to put together a fancy picnic), visit the recently relocated Blue Provence Bakery (300 S. County Rd.; 561-651-1491), which sells delicate homemade pastries, as well as heartier options, like foie gras, truffles and sandwiches. For the best hors d'oeuvres and a good wine selection, try C'est Si Bon (280 Sunset Ave.; 561-659-6503). The goat-cheese puffs are classic Palm Beach. Across the Southern Boulevard Bridge, in West Palm Beach, the Napoleon Bakery (6619 S. Dixie Hwy.; 561-588-6295) has expertly prepared Spanish fare: paella, croquetas, tortilla de patatas and other gourmet staples.
After dinner the young and beautiful meet for drinks at Cucina Dell'Arte (257 Royal Poinciana Way; 561-655-0770), a restaurant that turns into a party scene around ten. There's also Michael R. McCarty's (50 Coconut Row; 561-659-1899), which stays open until 1 A.M., often later if the crowd demands it.