Be sure to...rent a car on arrival, since many of the best beaches are a bit of a drive.

Stay at...L'Auberge, one of my favorite hotels in town. 011-598-42-48-2601; laubergehotel.com.

Hit the beach in...José Ignacio, a town about half an hour away with miles of gorgeous sand and great waves.

Shop in...the nearby village of La Barra for finds from south of the equator.

Linger over lunch at...La Huella, in José Ignacio, where lunchtime is a true scene, similar to St.-Tropez's Club 55. 011-598-48-62279.

Dine at...Restaurant Andrés. It overlooks the bay and serves the finest steak in Uruguay. 011-598-42-48-1804.

See a polo match at...the Medellin Polo Club. 011-598-42-44-9342.

Don't miss...the sea lions on Isla Gorriti and Isla de los Lobos.

Spend evenings on...the terrace of the Yacht Club Uruguayo, which is open to nonmembers. 011-598-42-44-1056.