It's said that almost every diamond sold in the world passes through Antwerp. I always say that every fashion lover willing to take a few stylistic risks should too.
When I lived in nearby Amsterdam, in 2000, I made regular pilgrimages to this picture-book Belgian city and have continued to visit ever since. Certainly, I come for the incomparably chic clothing. I'm also drawn to the seamlessly integrated modern and Art Nouveau architecture of the handsomely preserved 16th-century town, as well as its compact size. Unlike in other style capitals, here I can stop by my favorite stores, stumble on new ones and still have time to take in some Rubens paintings — in just one day. Try that in New York or Paris.
This friendly and forward-looking locale began earning its cutting-edge bona fides when six graduates of the Royal Academy of Fine Art's fashion department made names for themselves in London, in the '80s, establishing the enduring cult of the Antwerp Six. And over the past twenty years, Belgian designers have grown increasingly hot, with Raf Simons taking the helm at Jil Sander and Kris Van Assche replacing Hedi Slimane at Dior Homme. Even Diane von Furstenberg chose Antwerp over her native Brussels for her initial Belgian boutique.
The downtown store Louis was the first to carry the clothing of locals-made-good Ann Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela, Dirk Van Saene and others. Soon an entire district grew up around the shop. Dries Van Noten anchored his flagship at the end of the once dreary Nationalestraat, and Demeulemeester's boutique is a mile away. In 2002, an old department store near Van Noten's Het Modepaleis was transformed into ModeNatie (28 Nationalestraat; 011-32-3-470-2770), a complex housing two fashion schools and the MoMu, a museum where celebrated names, like Veronique Branquinho — at thirty-four, already a ten-year fashion veteran — have retrospectives. The Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto opened his largest location on the ground floor in October.
While the usual high-end suspects (Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Hermès) are here, the Antwerp shopper is discriminating: this is a town for the stealth well-to-do and trend averse. Because Belgian fashion is created away from the Paris–Milan–New York axis, it is extremely individualistic, from the lavish embroidered silks and poetic tailoring of Van Noten to the Patti Smith–inspired rich-artist spirit of Demeulemeester. Nonetheless, the clothes remain refreshingly timeless, not to mention wearable. Most Antwerp women who can afford them are over forty, which may explain why the pants made here are so flattering. Best of all, Antwerp has plenty of size 8s and 10s, known here as 40s and 42s, so garments that disappear quickly in the States are almost always available.
The best way to cover the city's shops is on foot. Granted, the streets are winding and their names difficult to pronounce, but every wrong turn yields happy surprises. Since I usually arrive by train, I walk ten minutes from Central Station to Schuttershofstraat, where blue-chip labels mix with homegrown institutions, like the shoe store Coccodrillo (Nos. 9A–B; 011-32-3-233-2093), which is stocked with Belgian stars alongside a well-edited selection of Azzedine Alaïa and Prada. The street also has particularly original jewelry shops, from the architectural silver and gold creations at Ilse De Keulenaer (No. 38; 011-32-3-232-2255) to Jewel in a Box (No. 34; 011-32-3-289-5610), an Automat-style storefront whose cases are filled with estate jewelry at candy-store prices, such as a coral, silver and diamond bracelet for $3,000.
Next I turn onto Lange Gasthuisstraat to stop by Verso (No. 11; 011-32-3-226-9292), a cavernous bank building whose stained-glass dome casts light on a solid selection of all the Italian heavy hitters (Dolce & Gabbana, Armani), plus French and Belgian labels. You may think you can buy these clothes back home, but like those in most Antwerp stores, the collections are much less flashy than they are Stateside. Shoes, bags, sunglasses and cosmetics round out the offerings, as do a café and a martini bar. For a tranquil bite, the nearby botanical garden hides the pocket-sized lunch lounge Het Gebaar (24 Leopoldstraat; 011-32-3-232-3710). From there I curve around to Sint Jorispoort to visit black-walled Karin Nuñez de Fleurquin (No. 37; 011-32-3-281-0474), the showroom of a young jeweler who works with agate, silver and precious stones to playful effect.
Getting to tiny Lombardenstraat will often require asking directions. (Luckily, everyone in Antwerp is friendly and speaks fluent English.) There, Annick Vandecappelle has opened Ave (No. 18; 011-32-3-227-4401), stocked with her own line of delicate, feminine clothes. On the corner is Louis (No. 2; 011-32-3-232-9872), which still carries edgy Belgian labels, as well as a complementary selection of Balenciaga, Lanvin and Rick Owens clothing and accessories.
Where Lombardenvest meets Nationalestraat, my heart always races, since I'm almost at Het Modepaleis (16 Nationalestraat; 011-32-3-470-2510). I rarely make it to the second-floor men's department for a present for my beau: I'm too thrilled by the clothes, the shoes and wear-them-forever boots and the scarves, which were embellished in Rajasthan. The strength of the euro has only slightly dampened my enthusiasm for the masterly designs, which may evoke the women of Bloomsbury one year, a modern passage to Jaipur the next.
A quick right onto Steenhouwersvest reveals more treasures: the coquettish knits of Comme des Garçons' Japanese protégée Sacai at Houben (No. 46; 011-32-3-227-4210); perfect jeans at the Swedish store Filippa K (Nos. 61–65; 011-32-3-232-8818); and precious collectibles at Adelin (Nos. 6–8; 011-32-3-234-9552), which specializes in fine jewelry from the 18th through the early 20th centuries. When I recently asked to see a pair of 1830s pearl and rose-cut diamond earrings similar to a pair I'd fallen for at S. J. Phillips in London (just $750 here), the saleswoman brought out three trays of comparable styles. For more vintage gems, drop by FCS (8 Timmerwerfstraat; 011-32-3-294-3378), known as Francis. (It's a ten-minute walk from Adelin.) If you're as nutty about Belgian clothing and modern furniture as I am, FCS is a godsend. On one visit, I found a Veronique Branquinho dress, a Chanel tank, a Thierry Mugler jacket, Scandinavian ceramics, and '50s chairs by Dutch industrial designer Friso Kramer, once touted as the next Prouvé.
Now I head back toward Nationalestraat, determined to get to Labels Inc. (4 Aalmoezenierstraat; 011-32-3-232-6056), another vintage shop where you'd be tempted to buy the clothes by Van Noten, Demeulemeester, Martin Margiela, Marni, Jil Sander and others even if they weren't priced to move: $270 for a Dries jacket, $170 for an unworn Marni skirt. Then it's over to Veronique Branquinho (73 Nationalestraat; 011-32-3-233-6616), whose tailored pantsuits, A-line skirts, forgiving dresses and classic trenches have a slight '70s edge that recalls Faye Dunaway in Network. The wide-legged pants are so well made, it's no wonder wealthy regulars call at the beginning of every season and say, "Just put together a wardrobe for me."
A short walk from there leads me to Ann Demeulemeester (38 Verlatstraat; 011-32-3-216-0133), where beautifully cut pants and jackets mix with punky items: an asymmetrical Mongolian lamb vest, a military tailcoat, a fishtail skirt. I've had to call the store for refreshers on how to put things on, but every time I dress in Demeulemeester's clothes, I instantly feel strong and confident.
If you have time (and space) for antiques, look on and around nearby Kloosterstraat for eminently collectible midcentury modern furniture at Marcy Michael (5/6 Arsenaalstraat; 011-32-47-622-8022), Branquinho's home-decor source. Other finds are Teijink (33 Kloosterstraat; 011-32-49-520-5240), for antiques with distressed finishes and surprisingly hip taxidermy; formidable Swedish antiques at the Old and the Beautiful (54 Kloosterstraat; 011-32-47-529-0474); and the sprawling International 14 Antiques Center (14 Kloosterstraat; 011-32-47-297-0340), where that linen-covered recamier you thought you'd find in L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is just $2,825, along with a $3,530 library cabinet and more packable bibelots. The truly ambitious will want to make time for the twenty-minute cab ride from central Antwerp to Kanaal (Nos. 15–19 Stokerijstraat; 011-32-3-355-3300), the warehouse complex of famed antiques dealer and interior designer Axel Vervoordt.
Laden with packages, I always find my way to touristy Hoogstraat. Where it feeds into bustling Grote Markt square, I make the best purchase of the day, at Frituur Number One (1 Hoogstraat; no phone): an order of fritje (fries) with mayonnaise and curried ketchup, one Belgian specialty that will never go out of style.
Any of these hotels will put you within minutes of great shopping:
De Witte Lelie. Long the favorite of fashion buyers, this quietly luxurious ten-room hotel, converted from three 17th-century town houses, is elegant and gracious. Double rooms from $430, including breakfast. 16 Keizerstraat; 011-32-3-226-1966; dewittelelie.be.
Hotel Julien. This boutique gem has eleven crisp, modern rooms in a historic building in the middle of the Old City. Double rooms from $240, including breakfast. 24 Korte Nieuwstraat; 011-32-3-229-0600; hotel-julien.com.
House of Porters. Step through the looking glass — and a sprawling home-decor showroom — to find your suite. There are just three superdeluxe rooms, each done in a different style (French, English and Oriental) with over-the-top panache. A fireplace in the bathroom? Of course! Double rooms from $610, including breakfast. 44 Kipdorpvest; 011-32-3-213-3575; house-of-porters.com.