In the 19th century, the brownstones of Brooklyn were an escape from the grit of Manhattan for wealthy investors, and for writers seeking some quiet: Walt Whitman, Truman Capote and Norman Mailer among them. Though the borough has a somewhat louder and less-affected reputation today, financiers and writers alike are once again seeking out the quaint, slightly more affordable pastures of Brooklyn. The upscale neighborhood restaurants, watering holes and boutiques that drew them there are, not surprisingly, multiplying.
A good way to start exploring New York’s largest borough is by taking a stroll through the Cobble Hill and Carroll Gardens neighborhoods. Chock full of brownstones, blooming trees and baby buggies, the neighborhoods – which two decades ago had yet to attract the current throng of affluent homeowners – lure not just locals, but visitors from Manhattan and beyond, in a kind of reverse-commute for shopping, dining and socializing. Smith Street stretches through the neighborhoods and is home to Brooklyn’s renowned restaurant row; below are some boutiques, restaurants and shops worth crossing the bridge for. You’ll happen upon all of them by walking south on Smith Street beginning at Baltic Street.
For Texas native Lara Fieldbinder, Smith Street was the ideal spot to open a forward-thinking clothing store. “It has an independence that we relate to,” says Fieldbinder, who opened the shop with her husband in 2005. “We thought this was the perfect place to showcase emerging designers. Also, my husband and I live in the neighborhood, and we love the people and the vibe here.” Dear Fieldbinder is a neighborhood favorite for reliably distinctive wares by Cynthia Rowley and Nieves Lavi, and beautifully crafted frocks by lesser-known designers like Rodebjer and Eskell. Set against a simple backdrop of white walls, intricately beaded dresses and hand-painted shirts more closely resemble art than clothing and give the store a gallery-like feel, which we attribute to Fieldbinder’s previous career producing books for New York’s Guggenheim Museum. 198 Smith St., (718) 852-3620; dearfieldbinder.com
This ultra-stylish boutique explores many facets of contemporary design: the polished femininity of Phillip Lim, the daring of Japanese designer Tsumori Chisato and the bohemian-chic of Parisian designer Isabel Marant. This eclectic blend of tastes in one space echoes Bird’s clientele. “We have all types of customers,” says owner Jennifer Mankins, who began her career in fashion as a buyer for Barneys New York. “But they all share a love of beautiful clothes that are special, crafted with care and speak to their individuality.” Brooklyn-based designers like Caitlin Mociun of Mociun, and Lily Raskind of Sunshine and Shadow provide some of the most original clothing in New York City, while lines like Belle Sigerson Morrison, See by Chloé, and Loeffler Randall further elevate the store’s luxe factor. A stellar collection of jewelry, shoes and handbags (not to mention adorable baby clothes and toys) make Bird a one-stop-shop for retail connoisseurs. Loyal patrons eagerly anticipate Mankins’ own organic line, Green Bird, available in May 2008. Visit Bird’s Website to shop and read the staff’s sharp, quirky style blogs. 220 Smith St. and 430 7th Ave., (718) 797-3774; shopbird.com
An offshoot of the Manhattan restaurant where Mario Batali began his empire, Po is home to a $50 tasting menu – salad, two pasta dishes, a main course, a cheese course and dessert – that is among the best values in the city. White linen tablecloths and vases of fresh flowers create an atmosphere both polished and inviting. Chef Lee McGrath puts his own spin on traditional Italian fare with ingredients like truffle oil, dandelion greens and Gorgonzola butter, making a dish as simple as spaghetti and meatballs a true delight. Other favorites include the goat cheese and black olive tartufo, and sun-dried tomato and ricotta gnocchi. 276 Smith St., (718) 875-1908; porestaurant.com
Owners Michelle Pravda and Patrick Watson share a passion for wine and cheese that has resulted in the neighborhood’s most cohesive trio: Smith & Vine, a wine shop, Stinky Bklyn, a gourmet cheese shop, and The JakeWalk, a wine and cheese restaurant that – happily for diners – draws on the inventories of both of the former. With thirty years of restaurant experience between them, the husband-and-wife team brings a wealth of knowledge, and not a drop of pretension, to their establishments. Smith & Vine (268 Smith St., (718) 243-2864; smithandvine.com), which Watson says caters to “customers at any stage in their wine consumption,” offers exceptionally valued wines and a wide range of choice. Regularly scheduled tastings are listed on their Website, and customers can book a private back room for parties. The name Stinky Bklyn (261 Smith St., (718) 522-7425; stinkybklyn.com) was concocted over a plate of potent-smelling cheese, and despite its amusing moniker, the shop was named one of the five best cheese stores in the city by Time Out New York the year it opened. With over 200 varieties of curds and whey from all over the world, it’s a veritable shrine to fromage. Pravda and Watson’s dual interests in wine and cheese culminated in 2008 when they opened The JakeWalk (282 Smith St., (347) 599-0294). An extensive wine list, a menu of over 40 cheeses and 20 cured meats and a gooey and generous “fondue for two” that changes daily set it apart from anything else in the neighborhood. The restaurant, which also mixes old-fashioned specialty cocktails, gets it name from the Prohibition era, when medicinal concoctions consumed in large quantities led to leg paralysis and a jerky gait called a “jake walk.” Watson says the name celebrates our good fortune to live in an era where people are free to enjoy a good glass of wine after a hard day’s work. The convivial group of regulars raises a glass to that.