Vanyavilas genuinely attempts to acquire access to the park, and it usually succeeds; but there's a chance that you will have to get there on a public bus. If so, relax. You will actually be doing something foreign, and perhaps a bit more real: exploring with Indians in their own country. And there is a reason for the park's stubbornly enforced quota system. Tigers need vigilant protection: it's estimated that if care is not taken, in five years the ones here could be wiped out. Already, as a result of the cats' celebrity, their habits have changed from nocturnal to diurnal—an adaptation that actually increases your chances of seeing them.
Even though you can usually go on two game drives a day—and you may be lucky and see a tiger on your first attempt—you should not plan on stopping overnight at Vanyavilas to "do" a tiger. Consider staying a few days: Banyan Tree of Thailand runs an excellent spa, and you can attend Fateh Singh's lectures, laze by the pool or shop at the appealing nearby women's collective. This is a place to relax and unwind from the intensity of India, and the tents are seductive places to read (or write) a novel.
Ranthambhore National Park itself is like a fairy tale surrounded by an ogre of a village. There's nothing beautiful about the development around the railroad junction, but it's intensely Indian in its higgledy-piggledy chaos. Brave it with one of the staff from Vanyavilas to see the market, the tailors, India in progress. When I first visited, there was a raggedy sign that read "Ranthambhore Welcomes President Clinton." It is gone now, and so is one of the magnificent tigers that Bill Clinton saw. Poachers? Who knows? It may be an indication of the conflict between the villagers, who are desperate for the firewood to be found in the forest, and the conservationists, who are determined to preserve that forest, originally the hunting ground of the maharaja of Jaipur and now essential tiger habitat.
When you see your tiger—and you will, have patience—you'll conclude that the animal's capacity for sleep exceeds that of a teenager. The sheer magnificence of these glossy cats is awesome, and they know it; the attitude is definitely not-performing-for-you-guys. Luckily, Fateh Singh works with Vanyavilas, and with the tiger man, I saw cubs playing in a lake—unlike most other big cats, they love water—biffing, pounce-pounce, growly-growly, all with lots of splash. Their fur rippled, and the size of their paws hinted at The Jungle Book's Shere Khan. Throughout, their mother napped on her back in the shade, paws in the air.
Beyond, looming over the silvery trees, was the fort, probably looking just as it did in the 14th century, when women, thinking their men lost in battle, threw themselves from its walls—only hours before the warriors returned home triumphantly. The sambar barks. Seven centuries have passed, and Ranthambhore remains fabled and mystical.
Staying in Style
Besides Vanyavilas, the allure of the tiger inspired the recently opened Aman-I-Khás, a collection of six exquisite tents in a camp created by Adrian Zecha, mastermind behind the superb Amanresorts. Situated at the edge of Ranthambhore, the tents are dismantled every year before monsoon season and rebuilt in time for autumn. This is a place for Aman junkies, those who appreciate the hotel-as-eco-yoga concept. $2,250 for a minimum three-night stay, single or double occupancy. 011-91-7462-252052; fax: 011-91-7462-252178; www.amanresorts.com.
There's also the Sher Bagh camp, owned by Jaisal Singh, who grew up in a palace by a lake in Ranthambhore. A tent camp with personality—guests often end up telling stories around the campfire, huge gin and tonics in hand—Sher Bagh is delightfully designed, but it's not for those who want in-room phones or Internet access. Singh has excellent access to Ranthambhore (he occasionally works with Aman-i-Khás). $250 for a tent, double occupancy; a jeep is extra. 011-91-11-3743195; fax: 011-91-11-3312118; sherbagh.com.
Of the three, Vanyavilas is the place for perfect luxury—a true five-star, where your wish is the staff's command. $570 for a tent, double occupancy. 011-91-7462-223999; fax: 011-91-7462-223988; oberoihotels.com. Greaves Travel (800-318-7801; greavesindia.com), an Anglo-Indian, family-owned travel company, plans imaginative, tailor-made itineraries in India.
Dos & Don'ts
Don't get cross. It's counterproductive in India, and tigers don't spring out of the forest for photo opportunities.
Do pack a thick fleece or sweater. Early mornings in Ranthambhore can be very cold.
Do make sure you're not hungry or thirsty before leaving on tiger safari. Vanyavilas provides water, but food is not allowed in the park.
Don't forget to pack sunscreen, insect repellent, a camera, film and extra batteries. Ranthambhore is not stocked like Manhattan.
Do look at the work for sale in the women's collective, which includes marvelous handwoven naive bedspreads and hangings.
Do travel onward by rail. You are bound to be going to Fatehpur Sikri, a World Heritage site near Agra. Send your driver ahead in the car with your luggage while you go first-class on the train with a picnic provided by Vanyavilas. The journey will take half the time and is very restful, and your driver will meet you at the station.
