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Viewing Venice Like a Local

Gigi Raccanelli, head concierge at the Hotel Cipriani, sheds light on what to do beyond St. Mark's.

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The view of Venice from the Hotel Cipriani's Cip's Club terrace at sunset.
Courtesy of Orient-Express Hotels.
By Gillian Hearst Simonds

Town & Country Travel: What’s the ideal itinerary for a first-time visitor to Venice?

Gigi Raccanelli: You can’t miss the famous St. Mark’s area and its most revered attractions: Doge’s Palace, St. Mark’s Cathedral and Museo Correr, famous for its Venetian masterpieces from the 14th to 16th centuries. To see more art, the Accademia Art Gallery is one of the most important in Italy for paintings from 14th to 18th century; the Guggenheim Collection has modern art, paintings and sculptures; and Cà Rezzonico is the wonderful Museum of the Venetian Settecento. A short walk to the Rialto Bridge takes you to Cà Pesaro, a collection of modern paintings, sculptures and other visual arts. The nearby Frari Church is a fine example of Venetian Gothic architecture that also displays important paintings of Titian, Bellini, Donatello and a Canova sculpture. And don’t forget a visit the nearby fish market.

A tour of the Venetian Lagoon by private boat is a must. After floating along the Grand Canal, you should disembark on Murano Island, where you can visit a glass factory and see how this famous glass is blown. Then detour on Torcello Island to view the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta, which is thought to be among the oldest churches in Venice. Built in 639 A.D., the cathedral’s interior is done in mosaics of The Last Judgement. You can also head to Burano island, where you can walk around the little fishing village and take pictures of the multicolored houses and purchase some of the island’s lacework.

If you had $5,000, where would you spend it?

On Murano Island, at one of the famous glass factories. I’d buy a glass chandelier made just for me. Or to Calle Larga XXII Marzo, the renowned Venetian shopping street, where $5,000 can be easily spent on your first stop.

You can’t say you have seen Venice unless you have...

Tasted our Cipriani Bellini, ridden in a gondola or taken a promenade during evening’s fall when the fog covers St. Mark’s Square and the high tide is coming in.

I’ve done the museums, shows, shopping and restaurants. What’s off the beaten path?

To see Venice from an unusual point of view, rent a helicopter service and enjoy an unforgettable view of the area.

What are the most luxurious rooms at the Hotel Cipriani?

The Dogaressa Suite is named after the First Lady of the Republic of Venice, the Dogaressa Loredana Mocenigo Marcello (wife of Alvise Mocenigo CXVIII Doge of Venice), who owned a princely, renaissance-style garden on Giudecca Island in 1500. The sitting room, the largest in the Palazzo, is decorated with original eighteenth Century Coromandel screens, antique Chinese lamps, Fortuny and Rubelli fabrics. The airy bedroom overlooks peaceful gardens; a spacious corridor leads to an elegant pink-marble bathroom. The Dogaressa suite is located on the Piano Nobile of Palazzo Vendramin, just opposite St. Mark's Square. The piazza can be seen through its four gothic windows.

The Palladio Suite, meanwhile, is like a glass capsule suspended mid-air above the lagoon. One of the unique features is its 180-degree view over the Venetian lagoon through floor-to-ceiling windows from the bedrooms, living room and dining area. The spacious living room is decorated with original artwork by Venetian glassblower Luciano Vistosi and offers access to a private little balcony. Guests staying in the Palladio Suite also have exclusive use of a large terrace with an outdoor heated plunge pool, shaded by jasmine bushes.

What's the most over-the-top request you have ever fulfilled?

It’s a very long list, but we hired a private palace for a birthday party, and helped a client find the best Venetian textile shop to carpet his private Boeing jet. The most over-the-top request is always the next one – all guest’s requests, even the more simple, are considered important.

Published on 10/24/2007
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