When calling the telephone numbers below from the United States, first dial 011-61-2, unless noted otherwise.
When to Go
Byron Bay enjoys a temperate climate most of the year. Summer (December through February) is the busiest time. Easter is also popular — not quite as warm but with more in the way of entertainment (the Byron Bay blues festival is held on Easter weekend every year).
How to Get There
Byron Bay, in the state of New South Wales, is a two-hour drive south of Brisbane's international airport and one hour south of the Gold Coast's Coolangatta airport.A flight from Sydney to Brisbane takes less than an hour, and given the accessibility of Byron Bay, it makes an ideal side trip for international visitors wanting to experience more of Australia's east coast. Make arrangements in advance to rent a car or hire a driver at the airport.
Where to Stay
For such a small community, the Byron Bay area has a wealth of high-end hotels, each with its own distinct personality.
Rae's on Watego's, the favored boutique hotel of the cool crowd, has just emerged from a revamp. The whitewashed Mediterranean-style villa, which sits at the western end of Watego's Beach, has been painted pale pink, and its owner, Vincent Rae, has added a two-story poolside villa (bringing the number of accommodations to seven), a new day spa and updated interiors.
All the spacious suites are outfitted with Javanese and Moroccan furnishings and antiques. Ask for a penthouse with an ocean view and watch the sun come up over the Byron Bay lighthouse, just as guests Nicole Kidman, Keith Richards and Hugh Jackman have done. The restaurant, with chef Andrew Gimber at the helm, turns out fiery versions of traditional Thai dishes (try the deep-fried son-in-law eggs served with a chili caramel sauce). Suites from $445, penthouses from $742, poolside villa $570. Marine Parade, Watego's Beach; 6685-5366; raes.com.au.
The Byron at Byron Resort and Spa is a sprawling ninety-two-room place that takes advantage of its enviable position, near both rain forest and ocean. The modern, well-equipped suites, grouped in sections with botanical names, such as Rivergum, Waterlily and Everglades, are reached via a raised boardwalk that traverses the semitropical rain forest and the water. Ours was a short walk over scrub and sand to the ocean. An open plan is the idea here, from the airy restaurant to the infinity pool and the wooden veranda dotted with chaise lounges.
Whether or not you buy the New Age claim that the forest exerts positive energy, there's definitely something mysterious about it, and many of the guests (mostly honeymooners and young families) spend time soaking it up from one of the resort's vantage points: a sun lounge, a chic cabana daybed or the deck during the morning's complimentary yoga session with brilliant Ashtanga instructor Sheldon Leon. The spa, with its relaxation area and expansive menu of treatments, is world-class. Suites $351. 77–97 Broken Head Rd., Suffolk Park; 6639-2000; thebyronatbyron.com.au.
Gaia Retreat & Spa, which singer Olivia Newton-John founded in 2005 with her friend Gregg Cave (who manages it) offers a different take on the region. Situated in the subtropical hinterland, this serene hotel is a fifteen-minute drive from Byron Bay, past coffee plantations and macadamia-nut farms. The focal point of the twenty-room retreat is the main house, called Kukura (which means "people" in Sanskrit), a Samoan-style longhouse designed to provide a peaceful meeting place for guests.
The emphasis is on well-being, with yoga classes every morning and several large daybeds placed around the property on which guests can while away the hours. The food is organic, much of it from Gaia's own garden, and the Amala Spa has a full menu, from hot-rock therapy to Kahuna massage. The best accommodations are in one of two Acala suites: the panoramic views and modern amenities make them a favorite with Gaia's VIP clientele. Packages from $855 a night, minimum three-night stay. 933 Fernleigh Rd., Brooklet; 6687-1216; gaiaretreat.com.au.
Renting apartments and villas complete with every luxurious amenity is popular, and one of the best is Terry Schwamberg's Byron Bay Villa (part of Contemporary Hotels & Beach Houses & Villas), a wonderful four-bedroom residence with a private garden, a large deck, an infinity pool and an unbeatable view of Watego's Beach. $11,715 a week. 9331-2881; contemporaryhotels.com.au.
For other options in the area, contact Jillian Middleton, of Luxury Houses Byron Bay, who can tailor accommodations and activities at the Beachcomber, a Mediterranean-style villa in the rain forest behind Tallow Beach, and other properties. Beachcomber $1,117 a night. 6680-8631; luxuryhousesbyronbay.com.
Where to Eat and Drink
Byron Bay's egalitarian spirit is best exemplified by its dining and drinking scene, which runs the gamut from haute cuisine to sand-between-the-toes casual.
The acclaimed beachfront restaurant Fins epitomizes Byron's unpretentious chic. Beyond the bird-of-paradise flower display at the entrance is a loftlike yet intimate room simply furnished with wooden screens and linen-covered tables. Chef Steven Snow's worldly menu travels as far afield as Portugal, Japan, Korea and Mozambique, and the dishes are imaginative and deftly executed. The knowledgeable staff knows its mahimahi from its barramundi. At Bay Lane and Jonson St.; 6685-5029.
Dish Restaurant and Raw Bar, just off the main drag, could have been transplanted from one of Australia's major cities. The decor is urban-cool white on white and complete with that ubiquitous signifier of hip: private banquettes. Diners tuck into such intriguing creations as quail baklava served with prosciutto, confit potatoes and pear-and-beetroot chutney. Shops 4 and 5, corner of Jonson and Marvel Sts.; 6685-7320.
The adventurous menu at the award-winning Boomerang features a rice-paper roll of Wagyu-beef tartare with soy-marinated morsels and other inspired dishes. Shop 2, 5 Fletcher St.; 6685-5264.
Nothing beats a sunset cocktail on the veranda of the iconic pub Balcony Bar & Restaurant. "It's buzzing and popular with the young locals," says Schwamberg. 7/3 Lawson St.; 6680-9666.
For basic but delicious alfresco dining, grab a bite at Fishheads, a seafood restaurant opposite Main Beach that also offers takeout. 1 Jonson St.; 6680-7632.
The daily dishes at the One One One cafe are scrawled on mini blackboards and may include cheese plates and fresh pastas. The coffee's terrific too. 1/111 Jonson St.; 6680-7388.
Where to Shop
Red Ginger is part Asian grocery, part tea shop and part housewares store. Patrons sit on stools in the window to sip tea and eat yum cha (dim sum) or browse among the shelves for traditional Chinese medicines, trinkets and antiques. 2/111 Jonson St.; 6680-9779.
For a good selection of paintings by indigenous Australian artists, head to Bim Bam (Shop 3, 2 Fletcher St.; 6680-8813); for a more contemporary take on the scene, try Byron Fine Art Gallery (Byron Arcade, 13 Lawson St.; 6680-8433), which showcases emerging and established area artists.
Invest in a saucy two-piece at Bikini Jam, a small boutique whose walls are lined with bathing suits in a wide spectrum of colors, all made in South America. 58 Jonson St.; 6680-9890.
Slingfings, which touts itself as "eco meets retro," stocks fun handmade shoulder bags in psychedelic vintage fabrics with wooden handles. In keeping with the "green" ethos of the region, the company runs on solar energy. 13 Banksia Dr.; 6680-8633.
Madame Pompidou is the place to shop for fashion-forward homegrown labels, such as Sass & Bide, Ed and Bek, and Anna and Boy. 16 Fletcher St.; 6680-7422.
What to Do
Walking up to the Cape Byron Lighthouse, at the eastern end of Watego's Beach, is a must for ocean views (it's also a great place from which to observe dolphins and migrating whales).
Get up close and personal with the aquatic wildlife via a tour with Cape Byron Kayaks, which guarantees dolphin sightings (if no animals appear, you can take another trip free). While the going can be strenuous, the tour caters to all levels of fitness, and your guide will go only as fast as the slowest kayaker. 6685-4161.
If hanging ten is your idea of a good time, look up a Byron Bay surf school. Schwamberg recommends Black Dog Surfing, where visitors learn the basics on soft-top Malibu cars. "The instructors won't take you to the same spots as everyone else," she says. Shop 8, the Plaza, Jonson St.; 6680-9828.
Acclimate yourself to the Byron scene by visiting a yoga studio. One of the best is owned by Rachel Zinman, who has practiced yoga for twenty years and has taught for fifteen. 4322-91-918.
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