Where to Eat
Porteño dining tends to be on the late side, with the day's meals growing progressively bigger. Breakfast, usually eaten around nine, is light fare, most often a cafe con leche and medialuna (croissant). Except for the cherished Sunday asado, a multi-meat, multi-hour extravaganza that even city dwellers observe, lunch — taken anywhere from one to four in the afternoon — is sit-down with pasta, sandwiches or salads; sometimes it is followed by yerba maté, a bitter herbal tea presented in a gourd that is passed peace-pipe style among friends. On-the-go options include delicious empanadas (pies, usually filled with meat). Many restaurants start serving dinner at six, but evening meals don't really get going until ten, when reservations at the best restaurants are advised. Partly because of the late dinner hour, afternoon tea is sometimes taken; if you do indulge in this old-fashioned ritual, be sure to try melt-in-your-mouth dulce de leche (creamy caramel spread). At least once during your visit, you must order bife de lomo (filet mignon), which is practically the national dish, as well as Argentina's fine Malbec wine, a rich red blend of the celebrated Malbec grape, which is grown outside Mendoza.
For Lunch or Tea
Florencio Enticing aromas waft from the open kitchen in this intimate patisserie, which seats only sixteen. The blackboard menu features sandwiches with fresh prosciutto, salami de campo, eggplant and zucchini. 2363 Francisco de Vittoria; 4807-6477.
For Cocktails
(All serve dinner)Casa Cruz Currently one of the places to see and be seen, located in the Palermo Viejo neighborhood. Towering brass doors open to a dimly lit, high-ceilinged lounge and restaurant with red walls, plush velvet couches and iris-filled vases. 1658 Uriarte; 4833-1112.
El Diamante Kitschy Mexican decorations and tropical plants make the rooftop patio a popular place for drinks in Palermo Viejo. The restaurant downstairs has wood-paneled walls and is furnished with mirrors, banquettes and a piano. Tapas include good seviche. 1688 Malabia; 4831-5735.
Gran Bar Danzón A fashionable, centrally located wine bar. More low-key than other venues, with a smaller and often crowded space, it offers jazz Wednesday and Friday in a candlelit setting. 1161 Libertad; 4811-1108.
Milión Affluent locals and expatriate Anglos gather in Milión's courtyard for cocktails, then climb the marble staircase of this former mansion to the upper floors for chicken-and-avocado salad, bruschetta and tapas. Situated in Barrio Norte (next to Recoleta). 1048 Paraná; 4815-9925.
Sucre Owned by the same people as Gran Bar Danzón, Sucre is among B.A.'s trendiest spots: tourists as well as the city's media and business players flock to this cavernous space in Belgrano. Also known for its chef, Fernando Trocca, and its great wine list. 676 Sucre; 4782-9082.
For Dinner
Brasserie Petanque Stylish Euros frequent this airy San Telmo brasserie with all the French fixings; try the crêpes and quiche. Among the entrées are escargot and boeuf bourguignonne. 596 Defensa; 4342-7930.
Cabaña Las Lilas The city's best-known (and most expensive) steak house, a canal-front favorite in Puerto Madero with rustic decor and outdoor seating. Tourists, businessmen and the well-heeled savor cuts from the restaurant's own grass-fed cows. 516 Avda.Alicia Moreau de Justo; 4313-1336. Reservations are a must.
La Cabrera A Palermo standby for older B.A. society. Try its famous bife de lomo and myriad accompanying sauces and side dishes. Packed tables and white-aproned waiters add to the appeal. 5099 Cabrera; 4831-7002.
Patagonia Sur This well-known establishment on the river is worth the trip to working-class La Boca for its soaring rafters, works by local artists and owner Francis Mallmann's culinary offerings. 803 Rocha; 4303-5917.
Social Paraíso A cozy option in Palermo for couples, with French-style fare. The Patagonian lamb with eggplant and tabbouleh is divine. 5182 Honduras; 4831-4556.
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