Cafés, Live Music, Tango Shows and Lessons
"Real" tango dancers gather at smoky milongas (tango clubs), which range from swanky to seedy. The clubs open at about 10 p.m. but don't come alive until midnight. Many milongas and cafés hold lessons from, say, 7 p.m. to 9 p.m., plus tango performances on special nights. Proper tango shows, also of varying quality, take place all over town. For a more complete list, pick up a Time Out Buenos Aires at a newsstand or visit whatsupbuenosaires.com. Many cafés in La Boca and San Telmo advertise walk-in lessons; avoid these, as they can take advantage of tourists. The venues below are among the best.
Café Tortoni Consummate tango singer Carlos Gardel and writer Jorge Luis Borges were regulars at this must-see historic café in the city's center. Come here anytime for the Art Nouveau style, complete with marble pillars and tabletops and tuxedo-clad waiters. After dark, slip in for a cafesito (espresso) or the nightly tango show. 825 Avda. de Mayo; 4342-4328.
Club del Vino Enjoy tango, jazz and other live music in this theater-café, which serves light fare. 4737 Cabrera; 4833-0050.
Confitería Ideal Crumbling plaster, floor-to-ceiling mirrors and antique chandeliers make this grand old tango hall perfect for tango lessons--or for taking in a quintessential Buenos Aires scene that time seems not to have changed. 380 Suipacha; 5265-8069.
Esquina Carlos Gardel A traditional tango show: eighty dollars for a three-course dinner and a tango extravaganza. 3200 Carlos Gardel; 4867-6363.
Where to Shop
Each neighborhood serves up something special. Shoppers of a more conservative bent head to Recoleta for classic stores. Fashionistas generally opt for Palermo, which is worth the better part of a day for its outdoor markets and boutiques. Those pressed for time may want to visit the eighty-shop Patio Bullrich or another of the city's high-end, boutique-filled malls, which are chicer than their U.S. counterparts. Also consider hiring a personal shopper through your concierge. (I did so while staying at the Alvear and spent a delightful afternoon with Parsons design school graduate Damasia Lemos. Well connected to the local fashion establishment, Lemos was more than worth her thirty-dollar-an-hour fee.) For leather, head to Calle Florida: it's touristy but good. For purses and bags, off-the-beaten-path options are the wholesale boutiques of the Villa Crespo barrio, at the junction of Malabia and Murillo.
Below is a small selection, by neighborhood, of standout stores, many of which feature the work of homegrown designers.
Recoleta
Cat Ballou This tiny boutique is a local favorite for its romantic silk and satin gowns, slip dresses and more. 1702 Avda. Alvear; 4811-9792.
Evangelina Bomparola Tailored suits in earth tones and fine fabrics. Lovely beaded sweaters and silk dresses. 20 Quintana; 4814-2553.
Perez Sanz Handbags, belts and jewelry inlaid with wood, crystal, marble, nickel, silver and bronze. Also beautifully designed home accessories, such as boxes and sculptures. 1317 Posadas; 4812-1417.
Tramando Haute couture and the avant-garde. Garments, shoes and accessories, often of woven fabrics. 1973 Rodríguez Peña; 4811-0465.
Palermo Viejo
Bacano Home furnishings and gifts in an airy space with mosaic floors. 1544 Armenia; 4831-3564.
Mariano Toledo Jeans, haute couture and slinky, brightly colored dresses. 1564 Armenia; 4871-5327.
Trosman Edgy, nearly rebellious pieces with vintage appeal. Feathers, beads, even photographs converge in designer Jessica Trosman's creations. 1998 Armenia; 4833-3058.
Varanasi Fanciful frocks in slick, vivid colors; structured garments and original silhouettes. 4761 El Salvador; 4833-5147.
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