Lay of the Land
Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, which consists of the ski mountain and the base area, Teton Village, is in the Snake River Valley twelve miles northwest of the town of Jackson. Small by the standards of today's megaresorts and refreshingly uncomplicated, Teton Village has nevertheless taken on a decidedly more upscale look of late. But though much of its alpine-style architecture has given way to handsome structures of timber and stone, the signature clock tower still anchors the tram building, and you'll still find the Jackson mainstays: the Mangy Moose, ski country's quintessential après-ski bar, for instance, and the Hostel X, where a bed costs fifty-eight dollars a night. There's a skier-services building, a handful of restaurants and ski shops, a small skating rink and the modest cross-country center (and meeting place for dogsled tours), whose paths connect to the vast Grand Teton National Park trail system. Undeveloped wilderness surrounds the ski area. The 24,700-acre National Elk Refuge, the winter home of more than 7,000 elk, is three miles north of the mountain, on the edge of the village, and Yellowstone National Park is about sixty miles north.
When to Go
Jackson's ski season stretches from early December through early April. The best time for powder snow is usually January through March; the busiest periods are between Christmas and New Year's and during school holidays.
Getting There
Several airlines, including American, Northwest, Delta and United, have nonstop service from major U.S. airports into Jackson Hole International Airport, a forty-minute drive from the resort.
Getting Around
A community bus system provides reliable, inexpensive transportation between Teton Village and town, and some hotels offer the same service, plus airport transfers, as a courtesy. But if you plan to do any exploring, you'll want to rent a car.
Where to Stay: In Teton Village
Four Seasons Resort Jackson Hole I loved the ease and convenience of being in the village, and this gorgeous 151-room mountainside property, a stone's throw from the gondola, does an exceptional job of catering to skiers. Although I didn't take advantage of the in-room boot-fitting service, I was happy to have one of the terrific ski concierges (a crew of adorable, mostly twenty-something ski enthusiasts) organize my lift tickets, update me on conditions and carry my gear to and from the slopes. And I spent several contented afternoons receiving treatments in the tranquil spa and soaking in the outdoor heated pool, where an attendant stood armed with warmed towels. We used our car for sightseeing, but for dinner in town we relied on the hotel's complimentary shuttle-van service. Our contemporary- Western-style room had a walk-in closet, a marble and stone bath, a gas fireplace and a mountain view. Rooms from $420. 307-732-5000; 800-295-5281; fourseasons.com.
Snake River Lodge & Spa The other high-end option in the village is this 143-room lodge, whose clubby rooms have dark wood and floral accents. There's a full-service ski valet and a 17,000-square-foot spa. After a tough day on the slopes, indulge in a massage or Champagne mud wrap and follow it with a leisurely dip in the whirlpool tub, with its glorious vistas. Rooms from $339. 307-732-6029; 866-975-7625; rockresorts.com.
Granite Ridge Cabins, Homesteads and Lodges These attractive units are perfect for families and groups or anyone looking for the comforts of home with hotel-like amenities. Ideally located at the north end of the village, near the ski trail, they range from two-bedroom cabins to larger accommodations. Each has a wood-burning fireplace, an open living-dining area, a private deck, an outdoor hot tub and mountain and valley vistas. From $724. 800-443-8613; .
Where to Stay: Outside Teton Village
Amangani The most compelling reason to stay outside the village is this stunning forty-suite boutique resort, high above the valley on the Gros Ventre Butte, midway between the ski resort and town. Decorated in impeccable Aman style, with lots of Pacific redwood, rattan and stone and a remarkable collection of Native American artifacts, the hotel is ideal for couples and for those seeking privacy. For skiers there's a regular shuttle to the slopes and a lounge near the gondola, as well as ski companions to help people get acquainted with the mountain. Each suite has a bath with a sunken tub, tons of closet space and sliding glass doors leading to a small terrace with a marvelous view of the Tetons. Under talented chef Joe Santangini, the Grill at Amangani serves up superb regional cuisine (look for grilled elk with roasted garlic and wild Scottish salmon with lentils). Rooms from $700. 307-734-7333; amangani.com.
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