When calling the telephone numbers below from the United States, first dial 011-34-91, unless noted otherwise.
When to Go
At 2,100 feet, Madrid is one of Europe's highest capitals, enjoying a cooler climate than other Spanish cities. The best months to visit are April through June, September and October. Midsummer can be oppressively hot, and in August many madrileños abandon the city for the beach; shops and most restaurants are closed.
Lay of the Land
Madrid and its surroundings cover about 3,000 square miles, but the heart of the city, the historic Centro, can be easily navigated on foot. A maze of streets shoots out from the Puerta del Sol (Sun Gate), the main plaza. To the southwest is the Plaza Mayor, and beyond it is the bohemian neighborhood of La Latina.
Following Calle de Arenal west from the Puerta del Sol will bring you to the Palacio Real, the largest royal palace in western Europe. In the other direction, the tree-lined Calle de Alcalá heads east to the serene Parque del Retiro and the upscale Salamanca area. Walking north across the Gran Vía shopping street will take you into Chueca and onto the wide-avenued Chamberí. Wherever you wander, keep a grip on your wallet. The touristy places in particular teem with pickpockets.
Take note: Castilian, the Spanish dialect that became the country's official language, may take some getting used to if you normally hear Spanish spoken by Latin Americans. Among the differences is the Spaniards' use of the lisplike th sound (instead of s).
Where to Stay
A ten-minute drive north of the Centro, in Chamberí, AC Santo Mauro is not quite as central as some of the other hotel options, but it's very discreet: celebrities stay here when they want to escape the paparazzi. Once the grand estate of an aristocratic family, the hotel, encompassing three buildings, has fifty-one spacious rooms that are done in a beige and white palette with sleek dark-wood furniture. There's also a book-lined restaurant, an indoor pool and one of the city's prettiest gardens. Double rooms from $584, suites from $883. 36 Calle Zurbano; 319-6900; ac-hotels.com.
Imagine a Manhattan society maven making her Fifth Avenue apartment available to select guests; that's similar to what Marta Medina did when she opened Casa de Madrid, a seven-room luxury B&B across from the stately Teatro Real opera house, in 2003. On the outside, the only hint of the casa's existence is a metal plaque that reads "CdM." Inside the high-ceilinged space, family heirlooms mix with items from Medina's travels. Painted birds and flowers grace the walls of the main sitting room, where guests often socialize during the cocktail hour. The friendly multilingual staff takes care of their every need, from supplying special requests at breakfast to suggesting shopping venues. If you enjoy staying in intimate quarters and talking with your fellow travelers, Casa de Madrid is a great choice. Double rooms from $289, suites from $495. 2 Calle Arrieta; 559-5791; casademadrid.com.
While most visitors will find the Hotel Puerta América Madrid too far removed from the city center--it takes about fifteen minutes by taxi to get to the Prado--design buffs probably won't mind: nineteen acclaimed architects and designers were given carte blanche on the thirteen floors. The resulting interiors include Zaha Hadid's cavelike spaces and Lord Norman Foster's white leather hallways and lobby walls. Double rooms from $240, suites from $870. 41 Avenida de América; 744-5400; hotelpuertamerica.com.
Those who want to be as central as possible need look no further than the Hotel Ritz Madrid. Since 1910, it has served as a secluded base for seemingly every chic personality, from the late Princess Grace of Monaco to Carolina Herrera. Orient-Express purchased the Ritz in 2003 and is giving it a much-needed refurbishing while leaving intact its grand French- and English-inspired interiors, with handwoven rugs, antique furniture, embroidered linens, ornate chandeliers and floral prints. The hotel, a quick jaunt from the Parque del Retiro, is just off the Paseo del Prado, and many of its 137 bedrooms and 30 suites overlook the famous museum. Double rooms from $600, suites from $1,320. 5 Plaza de la Lealtad; 701-6767; 800-237-1236; ritzmadrid.com.
Madrid's trendiest boutique property is easily the Hotel Urban, a few blocks from the Paseo del Prado. Its public spaces showcase an eccentric blend of gold mosaics and black marble, as well as the owner's impressive collection of Papua New Guinea sculptures and Egyptian art. Rooms are small but stylish, with lots of dark leather and wood. Be warned: the Urban is home to a nightlife scene, and revelers pack its Glass Bar, sometimes until 3:00 a.m. Double rooms from $305, suites from $570. 34 Carrera de San Jerónimo; 787-7770; derbyhotels.es.
Where to Eat
If you cannot wait until 9:00 p.m.--the earliest you will be seated for dinner in Madrid--go to one of the many tapas bars, which generally open between 7:00 and 8:00 p.m. La Latina is the best neighborhood for small-dish restaurants, especially along Cava Baja and Cava Alta.
It's hard to go wrong at the lively Casa Lucas, which serves eggs with morcilla, or blood sausage, and pine nuts (a typical Madrilenian dish) and many other modern tapas, as well as more classic plates, like Andalusian salmorejo, a thick gazpacho with ham. 30 Cava Baja; 365-0804.
Taberna Bilbao, half restaurant, half tapas bar on the pretty square called Plaza de la Paja, serves authentic Basque dishes. Don't miss such specialties as sinful Idiazábal fried cheese and pimientos de piquillo, small, tangy red peppers sometimes filled with meat. 8 Costanilla de San Andrés; 365-6125.
At the minimalist Taberneros, Japanese chef Kenji Morita prepares his versions of tapas, including tuna tataki and cherry gazpacho. The wine list is one of the city's most eclectic. 9 Calle de Santiago; 542-2160.
For a Gormet Meal
The ten-table Asiana, hidden like a speakeasy (in a Chueca shop selling Asian antiques), is the brainchild of rising culinary star Jaime Renedo, who trained all over the world. His innovative multi-course menu changes weekly: market-influenced dishes are inspired by Spanish cuisine one week, Asian the next. 4 Travesía de San Mateo; 310-0965.
The most authentic paella may come from Valencia, but Norberto Jorge serves Madrid's best version at Casa Benigno, in Chamartín, northwest of the Centro. The chef takes his work very seriously, as you can tell from the cookbooks lining the shelves in the romantic restaurant's four blue rooms. He even designs his own paella pans. 9 Benigno Soto; 413-3356.
Young, ambitious Elías Murciano heads the new restaurant Citra, near the Parque del Retiro, where ordering from the chef's menu gets you an imaginative seven-course seasonal Mediterranean meal (also a bargain at $78) that may include a foie gras terrine with fig carpaccio or artichoke soup with red mullet and vanilla-infused oil. 18 Calle de Castelló; 575-2866.
Sergi Arola's La Broche, the chef's two-Michelin-starred restaurant in Chamberí's Hotel Occidental Miguel ángel, is an ideal showroom for the chef's daredevil dishes, such as smoked tuna, tomato water and mozzarella ice cream or sea urchin with seaweed cream. 29 Calle de Miguel ángel; 399-3437.
For a more traditional experience, reserve a table at the two-Michelin-starred Santceloni, Catalonian chef Santi Santa-maria i Puig's outpost in the hotel Hesperia Madrid, in Chamberí. Óscar Velasco, Santamaria i Puig's right-hand man in Madrid, serves up grouper marinated with mashed smoked apples, candied suckling pig with truffles and other specialties. 57 Paseo de la Castellana; 210-8840.
Even after thirty years at the helm of Viridiana, chef Abraham García still experiments with superb ingredients and personally greets guests in the two-story restaurant, which is just off the Parque del Retiro. Stills from Luis Buñuel films adorn the walls; García, a movie buff, named the place after the director's 1961 masterpiece. 14 Calle Juan de Mena; 523-4478.
For a Quick Break
In 2003, chef Ferran Adrià went mainstream with Fast Good, a high-end fast-food chain that makes the staples (cheeseburgers and fries) with top ingredients. The flagship is off the Paseo de la Castellana, in the business district, but this branch opened in the more central Salamanca in 2005. 3C Juan Bravo; 577-4151.
Cacao Sampaka, a shop that's all about chocolate, is the creation of Adrià's older brother, Albert. Everything from Parmesan to flowers to anchovies flavors the inventive truffles sold at the Madrid location, in Chueca. For a decadent, sweet boost, order a cup of its famously rich hot chocolate. 4 Calle Orellana; 319-5840.
The beloved Embassy, offering pastries, canapés and tea sandwiches, is a nice spot for a break during a Salamanca shopping spree. 12 Paseo de la Castellana; 435-9480.
While in Salamanca, stop off at Giangrossi for the city's best artisanal ice cream. If you can't choose from the list of mouthwatering flavors, one of which is dulce de leche with bananas, order the nine-dollar sample of five flavors. 44 Calle Velázquez; 781-3073.
For a Great Scene
Bohemian locals and expats head to Delic, a smart café on La Latina's Plaza de la Paja, to enjoy sandwiches, hummus and tarts. 14 Costanilla de San Andrés; 364-5450.
It doesn't have a velvet rope, but Loft 39 is one of the most popular spots in town. The menu at Salamanca's latest posh lounge has such jet-set favorites as lobster consommé, oysters and lots of Champagne. Try to get a table on the roof terrace. 39 Calle Velázquez; 432-4386.
Sacha, a cozy bistro in Chamartín, is often frequented by local chefs and journalists, who rave about the Galician- and Catalonian-influenced cuisine and also about the friendliness of owner Sacha Hormaechea. 11 Calle Juan Hurtado de Mendoza; 345-5952.
For a Night Out
An accomplished, arty bunch frequents Chueca's Bar Cock. It's hard to find, which only confirms its insider status (if you get lost, ask at Del Diego, another good bar, a few doors down). The interior resembles an old-fashioned gentlemen's club, and the bartenders make excellent cocktails. 16 Calle de la Reina; 532-2826.
The design-hotel-as-hip-hangout fad hit Madrid when the Hotel Urban, complete with its Glass Bar and a roof terrace with sweeping views of the city, opened, in 2005. Chic twenty- and thirty-somethings start or end their nights in the glass-walled space, which has Philippe Starck-designed chairs and a bar made of lit-up marble.
Where to Shop in Salamanca
Agatha Ruiz de la Prada The flagship of this prolific pioneer of Madrid's fashion scene displays everything from colorful furniture to sexy tops with bold prints. 27 Calle de Serrano; 319-0501.
Amarcord Not many people realize that actress Penélope Cruz owns this boutique, which sells American labels, such as Juicy Couture and Kaviar and Kind. 113 Claudio Coello; 575-0543.
Castañer This famous shoe store, founded in 1927, makes espadrilles for Hermès and Yves Saint Laurent. 51 Claudio Coello; 578-1890.
CH Carolina Herrera The designer's feminine creations are extremely popular in Spain. 16 Calle de Serrano; 781-4380.
Jocomomola Spanish designer Sybilla has a flirty new collection for teenagers and twenty-somethings. 12 Callejón de Jorge Juan; 575-0005.
Josep Font The top young Spanish designer is known for his romantic party dresses. 51 Don Ramón de la Cruz; 575-9716.
Papo d'Anjo A Portuguese dessert gave expat Catherine Connor the name for her children's-clothing boutique, which attracts Madrid's most elegant families. 75 Calle Velázquez; 577-2060.
Sybilla The vibrant clothing and housewares found here, next door to Jocomomola, are favorites of plugged-in locals and visitors, like model Linda Evangelista. 12 Callejón de Jorge Juan; 578-1322.
Where to Shop: In and Around Chueca
Isolée You can eat sushi, load your iPod and buy Valentino all in one go at Madrid's first concept store. 19 Infantas; 524-1298.
Kala Model Eugenia Silva opened this funky fashion shop with her friend Fatima de Burnay several years ago. Silva sources beauty products and stylish designs on her travels, and de Burnay makes her whimsical hats on the premises. 6 Calle Blanca de Navarra; 319-8806.
Pez The luminous shop, designed by María Prado, carries a cool mix of European and American labels. 15 Calle Regueros; 310-6677.
Reserva y Cata Ask proprietor Ezequiel Sánchez-Mateos for his picks among the noteworthy collection of Spanish wines. 13 Conde de Xiquena; 319-0401.
Where to Shop: Near Puerta del Sol
Borcasa Marta Medina, owner of Casa de Madrid, finds her beautiful linens here. 2 Marques Viudo de Pontejos; 532-6153.
Casa Mira Madrileños line up for turrón (almond candies) at this confectioner's shop. 30 Carrera de San Jerónimo; 429-6796.
Helena Rohner Designer Paul Smith is a long-standing fan and buyer of Rohner's minimalist jewelry. 4 Calle Almendro; 365-7906.
Maty This flamenco-themed shop specializes in polka-dot and ruffled dresses. 2 Maestro Victoria; 531-3291.
Sastreria Lopéz Herbón Have a suit or shirt made by the tailor and join a clientele that includes Juan Carlos of Spain, Oscar de la Renta and Plácido Domingo. By appointment only. 9 Calle Cedaceros; 429-7707.
Seseña Carrying Spanish capes made of wool and velvet, the Madrid institution has been in business since 1901. Paloma Picasso and Hillary Clinton have been clients. 23 Calle Cruz; 531-6840.
What to Do: Museums
Picasso's Guernica and Dalí's Invisible Man, among other Spanish masterpieces, have always made a trip to the Museo Nacional Centro de Arte Reina Sofía worthwhile. Now the $100 million Jean Nouvel extension has transformed the Reina into one of the world's largest modern-art museums. An exhibit of the works of Chuck Close runs until May. Refuel with progressive tapas at Sergi Arola's restaurant at the museum, or relax in the tranquil courtyard. Closed Tuesday. 52 Calle Santa Isabel; 774-1000; museoreinasofia.es.
On Sundays, when admission to the Museo del Prado is free, it's too crowded, so come on a weekday before 9:00 A.M. and use the north entrance, across from the Ritz. If the Rafael Moneo addition stays on schedule, it will be an exciting place to see this spring. Don't miss Bosch's Garden of Earthly Delights, on the ground floor. Through May 13, a Tintoretto exhibit is on view. Closed Monday. Paseo del Prado; 330-2800; museoprado.es.
The Balenciaga collection and bullfighting costumes are highlights at the excellent new Museo del Traje (Costume Museum), outside the city center. Closed Monday. 2 Avenida Juan de Herrera; 549-7150; museodeltraje.mcu.es.
The five-floor addition to the Museo Thyssen-Bornemisza houses the Baroness's collection of 17th-century to 20th-century art; some prefer it to the Museo del Prado. Her late husband's more overwhelming collection, encompassing works from the 13th to the 20th centuries, remains on display in the original museum. Closed Monday. 8 Paseo del Prado; 369-0151; museothyssen.org.
What to Do: Galleries
Two contemporary-art galleries, the Palacio de Cristal and the Palacio de Velázquez, both operated by the Reina Sofía and located in the Parque del Retiro, are worth visiting. The former is housed in a steel-and-glass building inspired by London's Crystal Palace, the latter in a pavilion built for the 1883 Mining Exhibition. 774-1000.
In the small Travesía Cuatro, owners Silvia Ortiz and Inés López-Quesada represent a stable of contemporary artists, among them Carolina Silva and Gloria García Lorca. 4 Travesía de San Mateo; 310-0098; travesiacuatro.com.
Swiss architects Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron (and an $80 million renovation) transformed a former factory into the CaixaForum Madrid, scheduled to open this year, which will house a media library and exhibit spaces. You can't miss it, thanks to Patrick Blanc's vertical garden, a leafy installation that sprouts up a wall facing the Paseo del Prado. 36 Paseo del Prado; fundacio.lacaixa.es.
Flamenco
While flamenco clubs are plentiful in Madrid, many are kitschy and overrun by tourists. Instead, head to the authentic Las Tablas (9 Plaza de España; 542-0520; lastablasmadrid.com) and Sala Juglar (37 Lavapies; 528-4381; salajuglar.com), where young dancers perform.
Musicians and dancers strum, sing and stamp their way through Madrid's flamenco festival, Suma Flamenca, which debuted last summer. From May 7 through May 27. sumaflamenca.com.
Beauty
To choose from a stylish day-spa menu, go to the Lab Room (63 Calle Lagasca; 431-2198). Or pack a swimsuit and visit Medina Mayrit (14 Calle Atocha; 011-34-90-233-3334), an authentic Moorish hammam.
Sports
If soccer team Real Madrid is playing at the Bernabéu stadium, going to a game is a must. Plus, fútbol is far less bloody than a bullfight. madrid-tickets.net.
Food and Wine
Learn about Riojas and Priorats at Planeta Vino, Madrid's first English-language wine school. You can also take day-trips to La Mancha and other wine regions. 24 Calle Monte Esquinza; 310-2855; planetavino.net.
Custom Tours
Made for Spain, a company that often works with American clients, can arrange everything from a shopping spree led by Lorenzo Caprile (one of Princess Letizia's designers) to a cooking lesson in the home of a chef. 7 Plaza de las Salesas; 310-7070; madeforspain.com.
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