Mykonos, Greece: Insider Advice

Ornos beach

PHOTO: Francesco Lagnese

Getting There

No flights go direct from the United States to Mykonos. From Athens's Eleftherios Venizelos airport, you can take a forty-minute flight to the island on Olympic Airlines or Aegean Airlines. Or travel about two hours from the port of Rafina (near Athens) on the Blue Star Ferries speedboat (bluestarferries.com).

Getting Around

Although Mykonos is relatively small (less than thirty-five miles square), renting a car is a must. Taxis can be unreliable and the narrow streets, while intended for foot traffic, are hazardous because of all the scooters zipping down them. Book a car in advance through your villa or hotel contact to make sure it's at the airport when you arrive. Note: There are very few automatic vehicles on the island, so you may want to work on your stick-shift technique before visiting.

When to Go

Mykonos is very much a seasonal destination; most restaurants and hotels open around Easter and shut down in mid- to late October. It's best to avoid the onslaught of visitors in July and August, but if you decide to travel then, plan several months in advance. Mykonos is considerably more relaxed and pleasant in May, June and September, when the weather is equally sublime as at the height of summer.

Who Goes

Mykonos, dubbed the St.-Tropez of Greece, serves as the summer weekend retreat for many wealthy and famous Athenians. It's also a stop on most Greek yacht tours. The island has long attracted models, such as Claudia Schiffer; the Moroccan royal family; and a glamorous fashion crowd, including Jean Paul Gaultier, Thierry Mugler and Valentino, who comes on his yacht. Recently, Mykonos has begun to draw American celebrities, like Sharon Stone, Harrison Ford and Calista Flockhart.

The Look

Anything goes on Mykonos, but in general the dress code embraces two extremes: white and peacock bright. You'll see white dresses and separates, vivid embroidered or sequined caftans, Pucci headscarves and dresses, and vibrant designer bikinis. For men, white shirts with shorts or light-colored trousers are the uniform of choice.