Telephone and fax numbers that follow, when dialed from the United States, should be preceded by 011-590-590 unless otherwise noted.
The Basics
Although St. Bart's is a French island, English is widely spoken. The currency is the euro, but U.S. dollars are accepted as well. Be prepared for very high prices. Think Manhattan, and then add 25 percent because of the exchange rate.
Driving
Many of the island's roads have been improved over the past year, but you still must be attentive at the wheel. The same hills that create grand scenery also make for steep ups and downs and some wild turns — without benefit of guardrails. And since there are only two service stations on St. Bart's, be sure to refill your tank when it reaches the halfway mark.
The Hotels
Hotel Saint-Barth Isle de France Tucked away on the eastern side of Anse (Bay) des Flamands, this lovely, quiet property is right on the beach. Understated and discreet, it is the place to go for those who don't want to see or be seen. Accommodations include a secluded garden bungalow (a two-minute walk to the beach), a junior suite in the main building and a two-bedroom villa on the beach. The style is Ralph Lauren meets the Caribbean: cool off-white marble floors, blue and pink accent fabrics and four-posters. There are two pools, an outdoor tennis court, a fitness center and a spa featuring Molton Brown treatments and products. Guests can dine at the open-air La Case de l'Isle, overlooking the ocean. In high season (January 5–April 8), double rooms from $930 to $1,415, suites from $1,710 to $2,645. 27-61-81; fax: 27-86-83; isle-de-france.com.
Eden Rock Those flying into and out of St. Bart's can clearly see the hotel and its red-roofed cottages, atop a promontory that juts into Baie de St. Jean. Remy DeHaenen, a Dutch adventurer, purchased this choice setting in the 1940s and built on it a house of wood and local stone where he entertained Howard Hughes, Greta Garbo and other friends. In 1995, David and Jane Matthews bought the property and turned it into one of the finest hotels in the Caribbean, with three suites in the main house, four cottages and five new villas on the beach (site of the former Filao Beach Hotel). The interior design of the main house and the cottages defies every expectation with which you may be encumbered when thinking "Caribbean."
"We had an old country house in England filled with furniture, paintings and things the children sent to us on their travels over the years, and we decided to incorporate it all here," says David. "It's a bit odd." Well, odd in the delightful way that the home of a beloved, slightly eccentric aunt might be. The cottages and suites are exuberant with color and different materials; no single residence is like another. If you want something with real charm and character, as well as terrific service, food and location, this is the place. The villas have a more restrained, modern look, but regardless of where they are, all Eden Rock guest quarters have flat-screen TVs, air-conditioning, high-speed Internet access and other amenities.
The hotel's two restaurants, the beachside Sand Bar for breakfast and lunch (the pastas are especially good) and On the Rocks for dinner, are superb. Built on the side of the promontory, On the Rocks is made up of curved tiers, the lowest and outermost cantilevered over the water. The food is imaginative and exquisitely served. A reef protects the beach at Baie de St. Jean, so the swimming and snorkeling are ideal. In high season (January 3–April 15), double rooms from $840 to $1,225, suites from $1,580 to $3,835. 29-79-99; fax: 27-88-37; edenrockhotel.com.
Le Sereno Opened in late 2005 on the site of the beloved Sereno Beach Hotel, at the edge of the green-blue waters of the Grand Cul de Sac lagoon, Le Sereno is the Eden Rock's aesthetic opposite. The low-key interiors of its thirty-seven suites, with their white walls and dark Venezuelan hardwood floors, provide a perfect frame for views of the sea, creating an aura of harmony and serenity (although the bowl of green apples has already become one of the most tedious design clichés of this young millennium). In each air-conditioned room are a flat-screen TV and a JBL docking station for your iPod (or you can borrow one that's already programmed). Although the lagoon isn't really deep enough for swimming, its shallowness makes it a good place to learn to windsurf. You can swim in the pool, with the added pleasure of underwater music. A large deck off the pool leads to the Restaurant des Pêcheurs, which serves cocktails and straightforward, delicious food. Word was that service was shaky in the opening season. But management knows that, and I found the staff just fine. Le Sereno is for the hip who know that when done well, less is more. In high season (January 8–April 16), suites from $775 to $1,805. 29-83-00; fax: 27-75-47; lesereno.com.
Hotel Guanahani & Spa The largest resort on St. Bart's, on a peninsula with Anse de Marechal on one side and Anse de Grand Cul de Sac on the other, the Guanahani offers a range of accommodations, from cottages painted vibrant tropical colors to ocean-view suites with private pools. All rooms are air-conditioned and have flat-screen TVs and DVD players. A grove of palm trees and thatched palapas on the beach provide shelter from the sun. As the water isn't deep enough to swim in, there are two pools, one right on the beach and the other in the restorative sanctuary of the Clarins Spa, which has a full menu of treatments. (Those looking for more active pastimes will find water sports and two tennis courts on the property.) I have developed an uncanny talent for being at the Guanahani when its main restaurant, Le Bartoloméo, is closed, but I've found the poolside bistro, L'Indigo, a delightful substitute. It's casual and open, great for breakfast and comfortable at night, and the fish is skillfully prepared. The large beach and range of activities make this perfect for kids. In high season (November 1–April 14), double rooms from $730 to $1,170, suites from $1,325 to $3,080. 800-216-3774; fax: 27-70-70; leguanahani.com.
Hôtel Le Toiny This fifteen-villa hillside resort, on the undeveloped east end of St. Bart's, is not on a beach, but does that really matter when you have your own pool and extraordinary views of the ocean? Not to mention privacy and a rich helping of European luxury. Each villa has a large living area with a kitchenette, a flat-screen TV, a DVD player and a fax machine, and spa treatments are available. The interiors are a pleasing mix of Caribbean colonial and south of France, notably in the red-on-white toile de Jouy fabrics. At the restaurant, Le Gaïac, chef Maxime Deschamps prepares exceptional food. Breakfast is served here as well, by the infinity pool. Or so I'm told; I couldn't resist ordering room-service breakfast, which arrived on Bernardaud china and white linen on the terrace by my pool. In high season (January 5–April 9), suites from $2,000 to $3,355. 27-88-88; fax: 27-89-30; hotelletoiny.com.
Villas
The several hundred villas for rent on the island are an excellent option for families and large groups. Long gone are the days when a "villa" was a bungalow or cottage with no air-conditioning and maybe a pool. Many of those on St. Bart's are luxurious by any standard, with well-equipped kitchens (though guests rarely use them), air-conditioning, a plasma TV in every room, WiFi and designer pools. "You cannot believe some of the requests we get," says Brook Lacour, who with her husband, Roger, started the villa-rental company Sibarth thirty-one years ago. "People want treadmills, chefs, nannies and more."
Four companies handle villa rentals: Sibarth Real Estate (800-449-1553), Ici & La Saint Barthélemy (27-78-78; icietlavillas.com), Marla (27-62-02; marlavillas.com) and Saint Barth V.I.P. (27-94-86; st-barth-vip.com). Sibarth is the largest by far; the five villas below represent the range of its listings. Rates are for high season, January 6 through April 15. For a complete list, visit the Web site of the firm's U.S. partner, WIMCO, at wimco.com.
Amber House A small villa with two bedrooms (and a third available downstairs), Amber House has views of Corossol Bay and Gustavia, a large outdoor living area and a pool. $9,600 a week.
Bon Temps You'll delight in a fantastic panorama of the northern coast of St. Bart's and several nearby islands from this Italianate villa, in the hills of Pointe Milou. It has gorgeous custom stonework and mosaics depicting shells, an open living area, a huge terrace with an infinity pool and six bedrooms, all with high ceilings and ocean views. $27,000 a week.
Eden House Here you will find high design — modern minimalist, that is — with lots of natural materials and splashes of bright accent colors throughout. The infinity pool is right off the open living area, with its fully equipped kitchen. All three bedrooms are in the main house. Situated in Marigot. $17,000 a week.
Villa Coco This property, in Camaruche, has sweeping vistas of neighboring islands; an airy living space with an infinity pool; and a gourmet kitchen. Each of the three bedrooms comes with a TV, a DVD player and a VCR. $11,000 a week.
Villa Om Perched on a hillside, this four-bedroom villa, in the gated community of Mont Jean, overlooks Marigot Bay. It features a contemporary design with clean lines, understated colors and an infinity pool. $25,000 a week.
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