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Punta Del Este, Uruguay: Insider Advice

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PHOTO: Maura McEvoy
By Suzy Buckley

Where to Eat

Many people consider La Bourgogne, a ten-minute drive west of La Barra, the finest restaurant in South America. Sit outdoors amid the fresh flowers and candlelight and indulge in fine French fare. The menu includes stuffed rabbit with Uruguayan caviar and duck with spiced port wine. On the way out, pick up fresh pastries at the bakery downstairs. Avda. Pedragosa Sierra and Avda. del Mar, La Brava y El Bosque; 42-482-007.

After shopping or sunbathing in La Barra, take a break at Le Club. Nibble on fresh bruschetta from a great vantage, above the loud parties on the beaches below. At Le Club hotel, Avda. de los Cangrejos and Avda. del Mar, La Barra; 42-772-082.

Finding the mostly outdoor restaurant Marismo, in the middle of the woods off the highway that leads from La Barra to José Ignacio, isn't easy, but it's worth the hunt. You're greeted by a big bonfire, twinkling lanterns and a small menu of delicious options prepared with local ingredients. On chilly nights, sit close to the fire and order the tender braised lamb. Prices are reasonable, but this is one of the few restaurants in Punta that don't take credit cards. Ruta 10, km 185, José Ignacio; 42-486-2273.

Medialunas Calentitas is La Barra's best-kept casual-cuisine secret. Locals go in and out of the diminutive bakery all day long, leaving with empanadas and bags of medialunas (buttered sweet croissants) filled with dulce de leche (creamy caramel). Palmas de La Barra, La Barra; 42-772-347.

Chef Francis Mallmann also owns Los Negros, which overlooks the lighthouse. Beneath thatched roofs and beside walls on which are excerpts from poems by Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Rupert Brooke, diners relish plates of brotula, prawns and salmon. Calle Los Teros, faro de José Ignacio, José Ignacio; 42-486-2091.

Parador La Huella is the most stylish late-lunch spot in José Ignacio, so you'll have to wait for a table. If you time it right, you can snack on sushi and thin pizzas in your swimsuit while you watch the sun set over the ocean. Playa Brava, José Ignacio; 42-486-2279.

Where to Shop: Downtown Punta

Be advised that there are no ATMs in José Ignacio, and La Barra has just one, at the casino in the Mantra. Take cash out in downtown Punta, on the Calle Gorlero, where you'll find plenty of banks and ATMs.

Magma Argentine clothing lines Jazmín Chebar, Rhapsodia and Maria Vasquez, alongside Custo Barcelona and Seven Jeans. Calle 20 between 27 and 28; 42-441-273.

Where to Shop: La Barra

Daniel Curto Leather and suede jackets, pants and skirts. Ruta 10, km 180; 42-770-091.

Fez Casa Moroccan and Chinese furniture. Ruta 10, km 161; 42-772-650.

Lanas del Este Colorful hand-knit wool sweaters. Ruta 10, km 160; 42-770-251.

Laura O. Chic home furnishings. Ruta 10; 42-770-871.

No Se Eclectic home accessories, art and antiques. Ruta 10, km 159; 42-772-058.

Paseo de La Barra A small strip of galleries selling art, photography and jewelry. Ruta 10, km 159.

Piramide Sequined and embroidered sandals, beach bags and sundresses. Ruta 10, km 162; 42-772-712.

Silvia Sarti Jackets and sweaters made by hand, jewelry of local silver. Ruta 10; 42-771-200.

Zoel Ask around for the current location of this boutique, featuring bikinis, sarongs and beach accessories.

Where to Shop: Between La Barra and José Ignacio

Kallalith Antique-inspired silver and vermeil necklaces, bracelets and earrings. Ruta 10 and 18 de Julio, Playa Manantiales; 42-775-358.

Manga Rosada Brazilian-made reversible embroidered bikinis. Ruta 10, km 164, Manantiales; 42-775-389.

Velas de La Ballena Oversized perfumed decorative candles. Ruta 10, Playa Bikini; 42-774-585.

Where to Shop: José Ignacio

El Canuto Rabbit and rex fur coats, leather shoes and sundresses by Uruguayan designers. Calle de Los Cisnes, Playa Mansa; 42-486-2028.

Lacoste French polo shirts and resort wear. At Parador La Huella, Playa Brava; 42-486-2231.

Where to Beach

On the Mansa side, Solenas, near Punta Ballena, is a tranquil beach that's splendid for horseback riding. On the Brava side, teenagers and twenty-somethings flock to Montoya, Bikini and Manantiales beaches, outside La Barra. José Ignacio, popular among a more cosmopolitan crowd, is composed of a string of lovely beaches, including the serene La Juanita, as well as Laguna Garzón (ideal for windsurfing and kite surfing). The most fashionable is the beach right in front of the restaurant Parador La Huella, where you'll run into European and U.S. expats.

Published on 9/1/2006
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