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Portland, Oregon: Insider Advice

Find out where to stay and eat in Portland and nearby Willamette Valley.

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Truffles at the Joel Palmer House
PHOTO: Rachel Weill
By Ted Loos

Where to Stay: Portland

The Heathman is a venerable boutique hotel dating from 1927; its stylish Tea Court, off the lobby, has Venetian paintings and wood trim. Rooms from $170. 1001 S.W. Broadway; 800-551-0011; heathmanhotel.com.

Fans of contemporary design will enjoy the Hotel Lucia, a small, clean-lined hotel with many bold works of art. Rooms from $165. 400 S.W. Broadway; 877-225-1717; hotellucia.com.

The Avalon Hotel & Spa has a riverfront location, modern furnishings and a spa and fitness club. Rooms from $169. 0455 S.W. Hamilton Ct.; 888-556-4402; avalonhotelandspa.com.

Where to Stay: Willamette Valley

Down in wine country, the top option is the Black Walnut Inn, a Tuscan-style lodging on a hilltop. Rooms from $200. 9600 N.E. Worden Hill Rd., Dundee; 866-429-4114; blackwalnut-inn.com.

Where to Eat: Portland

The city overflows with serious restaurants. Warm honey-colored wood distinguishes Higgins Restaurant & Bar, whose chef, Greg Higgins, seeks out terrific Pacific Northwest ingredients; he's one of the few chefs who can make vegetarian dishes sing. 1239 S.W. Broadway; 503-222-9070.

At Wildwood, chef Corey Schreiber pioneered hearty yet refined Northwest cuisine and innovative techniques, like cooking rockfish in a tandoori oven. 1221 N.W. 21st Ave.; 503-248-9663.

The "Oregon Italian" restaurant Clarklewis has minimalist-industrial decor and simple rustic fare enhanced by ingredients bought the day they're served. 1001 S.E. Water Ave.; 503-235-2294.

The menu at the Bluehour changes daily and features inspired Mediterranean fare. 250 N.W. 13th Ave.; 503-226-3394.

Where to Eat: Willamette Valley

In the picturesque valley, start at Tina's, a casual French country bistro that has the intimate feel of a chef-owned place. The organic produce comes from farmers who are both neighbors and patrons. 760 S.W. Hwy. 99W, Dundee; 503-538-8880.

Mushroom lovers shouldn't miss the Joel Palmer House, where Jack Czarnecki takes traditional country-inn fare and spins it toward his passion; his beef Stroganoff, for example, is topped with fresh chanterelles. 600 Ferry St., Dayton; 503-864-2995.

The Dundee Bistro is a winemakers' hangout that serves delicious, uncomplicated food, such as gourmet pizzas and a remarkably delicate Alaskan halibut fish and chips. 100A S.W. 7th St., Dundee; 503-554-1650.

Wineries

From Portland, it's less than thirty miles south to the first major winery. Every July, wine lovers descend on the town of McMinnville for the International Pinot Noir Celebration (ipnc.org).

If you can't make that event, keep in mind that the wineries are open all year. The best ones to go to are Archery Summit, Argyle, Carlton Winemakers Studio, Domaine Drouhin, Domaine Serene, Penner-Ash and Sokol Blosser. You'll find phone numbers and directions at willamettewines.com.

Published on 11/1/2006
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