Wave goodbye to flip-flops, suntans and the other glorious perks of summer. It's time to put on your serious city clothes and return to the real world. And what better way to kick-start those brain cells than to take a trip through London's remarkable art scene? (The free museums and galleries also offer refuge from the still terrible exchange rate.) The best shows are held in autumn, in part because top collectors jet in for the giant Frieze Art Fair.
Visitors interested in what's happening now can begin their tour at the Whitechapel Gallery (011-44-20-7522-7888; whitechapel.org). Starting September 25, this revered East End institution will preview auction lots created for its luminous space (they will go on sale at Sotheby's October 13). Some sixty acclaimed artists have pledged contributions, including Carl Andre, Francesco Clemente, Richard Deacon, Thomas Schutte, Hiroshi Sugimoto and Rachel Whiteread. The Hayward Gallery (011-44-20-7921-0813; hayward.org.uk), south of the river, will display key pieces by leading modern and contemporary British artists that Arts Council England has gathered over sixty years. On exhibit from September 7 through November 19 are works by Henry Moore, Damien Hirst, Gilbert & George and Bridget Riley, among others.
Another gallery worth a visit is Michael Hue-Williams's Albion (011-44-20-7801-2480; albion-gallery.com), which was designed by Lord Norman Foster and overlooks the Thames. Beginning in October, photographs by Japanese artist Mariko Mori will be on view.
Meanwhile, over at the National Portrait Gallery (011-44-20-7306-0055; npg.org.uk), there's the don't-miss "David Hockney: Portraits," a major exhibition of one of Britain's most famous living artists. Opening October 12, it examines Hockney's passion for portraiture in 200 paintings, drawings and photo collages. Frieze Art Fair (frieze.com), which runs from October 12 through October 15, is bound to draw crowds; 47,000 people attended last year. Tate Britain (011-44-20-7887- 8888; tate.org.uk) unveils works by the four artists short-listed for the Turner Prize on October 3.
And if all the contemporary art has you yearning for an Old Master, stop by the National Gallery (011-44-20-7747-2885; nationalgallery.org.uk), where a comprehensive show focuses on Diego Velázquez (starting October 18).
Those who prefer to carry their art must see the new Sac Frères (7 Grafton St.; 011-44-20-7495-9040), in Mayfair. This bag boutique is the brainchild of James Mullen, an imaginative Dubliner and a founder of the clothing company Thomas Pink (he sold it to LVMH in 2001). Mullen has created luggage and handbags out of so-called performance fabrics, meticulously crafted materials used primarily in traditional costumes. The concept came to him at a bullfight in Seville, when he saw the way light illuminated the fabric of a matador's cape. "If you could just put handles on it...," he mused, then did exactly that, employing the same silky cotton of the capes to produce the bags in Sac Frères' Matador line. Other collections on sale at the colorful shop are Continental, featuring fine leather otherwise found in the upholstery of Aston Martins, Bentleys and Bristols; Huntsman, made of bright red woolen twill from the mills of Yorkshire; and Vatican, whose silk buttons and piping are crafted in Rome by the pope's tailor.
Just a few blocks away at Ben Brown Fine Arts (21 Cork St.; 011-44-20-7734-8888; benbrownfinearts.com), Louisa Guinness presents "Small Sculpture to Wear," custom jewelry by big-name contemporary artists, such as Anish Kapoor, Tim Noble and Sue Webster, in addition to pieces by Picasso and Man Ray. Guinness's vintage finds may inspire you to stroll over to Browns, on South Moulton Street, where you'll discover the designs of the revamped '60s rock 'n' roll brand Biba (bibaexperience.com). Londoner Bella Freud, who conceived this fall's ready-to-wear collection, has updated the iconoclastic label, which was originally known for maxi skirts and miniskirts, large bold prints and platform shoes.
When it comes to shopping for the home, my favorite new store is Ken Bolan's antiques emporium Talisman (79–91 New Kings Rd.; 011-44-20-7731-4687), housed in an Art Deco garage. Bolan, a committed collector who relocated his successful business from Dorset to London (he couldn't resist the gorgeous 1930s building), travels around Europe six times a year to add to his eclectic assortment. The 16,000-square-foot space displays pieces dating from the Roman period through yesterday: garden statuary and Swedish dining tables, 18th-century mirrors and 1970s Lucite tables. Prices range from $500 to $2 million, with a lot of items costing less than $2,000.
Hungry yet? Make for the recently opened Luciano (72–73 St. James's St.; 011-44-20-7408-1440), a collaboration of hotelier Sir Rocco Forte and renowned chef Marco Pierre White. With its high ceilings, mosaic floors and lovely artwork, the dining room has a glamorous 1950s feel, and the menu lives up to the fine surroundings (I enjoyed the Cornish crab as well as the roast partridge with figs). My only gripe: our table for four was too big. The waiter moved us, but had the restaurant been busier, we would have ended up shouting to hear one another.
Another newcomer--or, rather, an old-timer under new management--is Cecconi's (5A Burlington Gardens; 011-44-20-7434-1500), the Cipriani of the eighties. Trendy Soho House took over the legendary restaurant last year and infused it with fresh life, giving it a light, modern decor and a more affordable, delicious menu that are already pulling in diners (for the liveliest scene, come on Wednesday or Thursday). Cecconi's also has an ideal location, near the Cork Street galleries and Bond Street boutiques. It's a wonderful spot in which to welcome fall: chatting over cicchetti (Italian-style tapas) next to some of the best art and shopping in the British capital.
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