Telephone and fax numbers listed below, when dialed from the United States, should be preceded by 011-31-20.
Lay of the Land
Amsterdam is a city of 165 canals, 90 islands and more than 1,200 bridges. The historic center is mostly contained within a half-moon formed by four concentric main canals radiating out from the harbor: innermost Singel, followed by Herengracht, Keizersgracht and then Prinsengracht. Near the midpoint, by the water, is Central Station; east of the station are the Eastern Docklands, comprising the eastern part of the harbor and the islands of Oosterdok, KNSM, Java and Borneo. South of the Prinsengracht are the Museumplein and Oud Zuid, where the major museums are, and, to the west, Jordaan, a lively, bohemian neighborhood.
When to Go
There's nothing like Amsterdam from early summer through fall. The sun glitters on the canals, and its reflection casts a magical light on the houses that line them. The sunlight also energizes the locals, who spend as much time as possible outside, cheerfully greeting friends and strangers alike, even dragging couches and chairs onto the streets to sit and feel the warmth on their skin and to watch people go by.
Where to Stay
The following hotels are in the historic center, the most convenient base for a visit.
The InterContinental Amstel Amsterdam, on the Amstel river, defines old-world glamour. Thanks to its faultless service, it is the lodging of choice for everyone, including the Dutch royal family and the cast of Ocean's Twelve when they were in town filming. Polished antiques typify the grand-hotel style of the fifty-five rooms and twenty-four suites. At the Michelin-starred restaurant La Rive, chef Edwin Kats prepares seasonal dishes, like foie gras croquettes and scallops with smoked-eel tempura. Double rooms from $740. 1 Professor Tulpplein; 622-6060; fax: 622-5808; amsterdam.intercontinental.com.
Along with a change of name — to the Dylan — the former Blakes hotel, near Jordaan, got a new chef, La Rive-trained Dennis Kuipers, who makes his own, modern French and North African statement with such dishes as roast Anjou pigeon with five spices. The bar-lounge is now cozier, but the forty-one Anoushka Hempel-designed rooms and suites remain the same: bright plaid or monochromatic spaces that have hidden mirrors and other feng shui quirks. Double rooms from $520. 384 Keizersgracht; 530-2010; fax: 530-2030; dylanamsterdam.com.
The College Hotel, converted from a 19th-century school, opened in May 2005 with forty sleek rooms and a chic bar-lounge. The place is still busy with students; many of the staff are trainees from the country's top hotel school, a fact that can mean inconsistent service. Celebrated chef Schilo van Coevorden (ex-Blakes) oversees the excellent restaurant, which presents classic Dutch cuisine with a twist, such as molasses-coated eel on sliced radishes, roast duck with a peach brûlée, and stroopwafel (a traditional caramel-cookie waffle) soufflé. Double rooms from $290. 1 Roelof Hartstraat; 571-1511; fax: 571-1512; thecollegehotel.com.
What's the next best thing to owning a historic canal house? Staying at Seven One Seven. More like a perfectly appointed and staffed home than a hotel, it has no obvious sign, and guests must ring a bell to get in. Antiques and original art decorate the eight suites. Two sitting rooms have fireplaces and a curious mix of objects, like African masks and tweed-covered chairs. Suites from $500 to $816, including breakfast and minibar. 717 Prinsengracht; 427-0717; fax: 423-0717; 717hotel.nl.
For a Quick Break
A short walk from the Rijksmuseum is one of the city's three De Bakkerswinkel locations, selling delicious breads, cakes and pastries and featuring an energetic vibe and a popular afternoon tea with all the fixings. 68 Roelof Hartstraat; 662-3594.
Both Patisserie Pompadour branches — offering hearty open-faced sandwiches, rich tarts and handmade chocolates — are ideally situated for a break from shopping or touring the city center. 148 Kerkstraat, 330-0981; 12 Huidenstraat, 623-9554.
For Fine Dining
The best time to dine at De Kas, in a former greenhouse in Frankendael Park, is on a sunny afternoon, when the light plays off the glass walls. The four-course menu — which may offer duck breast with wild mushrooms — shows off the harvest of the day from the surrounding gardens or local organic farms. Everything is wonderfully cooked and simply presented by chefs Ronald Kunis and Martijn Kajuiter, veterans of London's River Café, and Marco Pierre White, a British chef. 3 Kamerlingh Onneslaan; 462-4562.
Envy has taken the small-plate trend to stylish new heights since it opened last year. The menu is so intriguing, it's difficult to choose from among the dishes; try the mixed plate of gourmet hams, the tuna-soy "lollipops" with wasabi granita and the vodka-marinated salmon with vermouth foam. On the right side of the narrow room is the open kitchen; down the center is a row of communal tables under a line of mod metallic light fixtures. The small booths along the left wall go fast; reserve at least a week in advance. 381 Prinsengracht; 344-6407.
Beddington's, the 2003 reincarnation of the place English chef Jean Beddington ran for seventeen years before taking a hiatus, is an intimate black-and-white setting for her weekly menu. As there's just one seating each night, she can afford to take care of every guest personally. That attention, together with fusion dishes, like jerk-seasoned skate with watermelon salad, has attracted an A-list of regulars. Reserve a month in advance for Friday or Saturday. 141 Utrechts-edwarsstraat; 620-7393.
Colonial ties are alive in modern-day Amsterdam's crop of Indonesian restaurants. One of the oldest and most authentic is the crowded and friendly little Tempo Doeloe. Visit when you're ravenous to fully appreciate the rijsttafel istemewa, a "rice table" assortment of twenty-five dishes rich in coconut, garlic and other flavors of the islands. 75 Utrechtsestraat; 625-6718.
For the Scene
There are three good reasons to visit Fifteen Amsterdam, the nearly two-year-old outpost of Jamie Oliver's London restaurant. One: you're a fan of the Naked Chef and his concept of a teaching restaurant for underprivileged kids. Two: you want a look at a former industrial space with a ceiling full of Jurgen Bey chandeliers and walls adorned with colorful graffiti. Three: while touring the Eastern Docklands, you hanker for an elaborate four-course Italian meal or for à la carte pasta at the trattoria in the same building. 9 Jollemanhof; 10-711-1567.
At 11 Restaurant Bar Club, a hip spot hidden away at the top of a building near Central Station, such basic fare as salads and sandwiches is eclipsed by the fashionable patrons, the funky design and the stunning city views. Come by day, after a visit to the Stedelijk Museum Amsterdam (temporarily housed in the same building), or for cocktails on the roof terrace. 3–5 Oosterdokskade; 625-5999.
Onassis, a new restaurant-lounge, boasts another of the city's most appealing terraces, plus a waterside location, nighttime bonfires and a popular Italian menu. Everyone orders a sgroppino, a concoction of cream, lemon sorbet and vodka that's whipped up at the table. Around midnight the music gets louder and the crowd starts dancing to DJ'd tunes. 40 Westerdoksdijk; 330-0456.
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