With decades of tireless reinvention behind it, Seattle has kept itself from turning into a "cultural dustbin," a fate predicted for it by renowned British conductor Sir Thomas Beecham in 1962. Seattle's current renaissance particularly showcases its long-held devotion to the arts.
Take the new Central Library (1000 Fourth Ave.; 206-386-4636; spl.org), a $165 million project and an appropriately bookish landmark for the United States' second most literate city (according to a 2004 study conducted by the University of Wisconsin-Whitewater). Designed by Pritzker-prize-winning architect Rem Koolhaas, the cantilevered library demonstrates the mix of ingenuity and public initiative behind a slew of Seattle projects. More than 100 computers buzz with free Internet access; bookshelves in the children's center stand at age-appropriate eye level; and about one million books are stored on a rack that zigzags up eleven floors. Proof of its appeal: the library is already one of the city's most popular attractions, with 1.5 million visitors since it opened.
Ever the city of arts and letters, Seattle has created a new home for its acclaimed Seattle Opera and Pacific Northwest Ballet companies: the 2,900-seat Marion Oliver McCaw Hall (305 Harrison St.; 206-684-7200; seattlecenter.com). Its exterior sets a glamorous tone; its plaza, defined by nine overhead metal scrims, doubles as an entryway and unforgettable open-air performance stage.
Less dramatic, perhaps, but equally exciting is the city's excellent new crop of small-plate restaurants. At Lark (926 Twelfth Ave.; 206-323-5278), the yellowtail with green peaches is divine. You won't find a better roast chicken than at Pair (5501 Thirtieth Ave. Northeast; 206-526-7655). Try the home-style lasagna at Crow (823 Fifth Ave. North; 206-283-8800). Celebrity chef Tom Douglas has added a fourth pearl to his downtown-restaurant collection with Lola (2000B Fourth Ave.; 206-441-1430), whose menu is a creative study in Middle Eastern spices. For cocktails, don't miss the tiny Sambar (425 N.W. Market St.; 206-781-4883).
Seattle has also been upping the ante when it comes to stylish accommodations. Those with modern sensibilities will do well at the new Hotel Ändra (2000 Fourth Ave.; 206-448-8600; hotelandra.com), featuring Scandinavian minimalism at its freshest. The southeastern-corner rooms of the rococo Hotel Monaco (1101 Fourth Ave.; 800-715-6513; monaco-seattle.com) afford fantastic views of the Central Library. For old-world elegance and flawless service, there's the Sorrento Hotel (900 Madison St.; 800-426-1265; hotelsorrento.com). A helpful service is the complimentary car and driver the property provides in case you need, say, an emergency tune-up at the Ummelina Spa (1525 Fourth Ave.; 206-624-1370; ummelina.com), whose treatments utilize salts, muds, oils and botanicals from all over the world.
Prefer having it all under one roof? Check into the Alexis Hotel (1007 First Ave.; 866-356-8894; alexishotel.com). The suites are spacious, there's an Aveda spa, and the new Library Bistro serves the best weekend brunch in town (call ahead to request the chef's Oregon hazelnut coffee cake). At the Parfumerie Nasreen, in the hotel's entryway, the owner will guide you through a first-rate selection of fragrances to take home.
For a more regional memento, head to the Winston Wächter Fine Art Gallery (203 Dexter Ave. North; 206-652-5855; winstonwachter.com). Painter Victoria Adams's landscapes capture the drama of the northwestern sky, reminders of why polls show that more than Starbucks and Microsoft, Seattle's number one draw is still its vibrant natural beauty.
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