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St.-Tropez: Insider Advice

The best shops in St.-Tropez

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MAP: Michael Hill
By Melissa Biggs Bradley

Telephone numbers listed below should be preceded by 011-33-4 when dialed from the United States.

This famous fishing village has been synonymous with style ever since Roger Vadim turned Brigitte Bardot into a Riviera fashion statement in And God Created Woman. For people who like to shop, it is a total treat. There are the latest must-haves from such luxury labels as Vuitton, Cartier and Tod's, as well as items you won't find anywhere but in St.-Tropez boutiques. The joy of browsing is enhanced by the pleasure of wandering a web of narrow streets lined with buildings painted in a palette of yellows and ochers. Wend your way from the picturesque Place des Lices, where men still gather for games of pétanque at dusk, down to the harbor, where megayachts from all over the Mediterranean dock. Sitting in a port-side café and watching the parade of people is a great way to end--or begin--your spree. Below are homegrown shops not to be missed.

Housewares

La Maison des Lices sells all the trappings for a Provençal vie idéale, from hand-painted beds and the quilts to go on them to wrought-iron dining tables and linen napkins in dozens of colors. 18 Blvd. Louis Blanc; 94-97-11-34.

Stranos makes customized beach towels soigné enough to grace any yacht in the harbor. The shop will hand-embroider the terry sheets, which come in vibrant colors, with your choice of motif or monogram. Bed and bathroom linens are equally fine. 2 Ave. Paul Roussel; 94-97-77-68.

La Vie Nouvelle celebrates the Mediterranean world's artistry and bright colors. Products include cutlery in a rainbow of hues, mosaic-topped tables and Moroccan lanterns in many sizes and shapes. 34 Blvd. Louis Blanc; 94-97-18-76.

Accessories

Pierre de Lune is a small, elegant jewelry shop on the Place des Lices. Its very stylish owner is a native of St.-Tropez who lives part-time in New York. Her designs combine shells with precious stones--for example, delicate ropes of sapphire beads strung with mini nautilus shells. Earrings from $700 and necklaces from $1,000. 94-97-53-00.

Jardin Secret's back room displays straw bags in every size and color, some adorned with check weaves, little straw bows, pom-poms or embroidered letters spelling "St.-Tropez." Inexpensive, light and easy, the bags fit the resort ambiance. 9 Rue Georges Clémenceau; 94-97-12-83.

Catherine Deneuve wears leather sandals made by Atelier Rondini, which has been in the business since 1927 and still produces its footwear in the same way, in the back of the shop. 16 Rue Georges Clémenceau; 94-97-19-55.

K. Jacques has elaborated on the traditional town sandal, ornamenting some versions with jeweled toe straps, others with leather daisies. 25 Rue Allard; 94-54-83-63.

Fashion

Victoire is a branch of the Paris boutique of the same name. Until it opened last year, private-label fashion was almost nonexistent in St.-Tropez. This shop fills the niche with great men's and women's clothes and accessories. 34 Blvd. Louis Blanc; 94-55-41-01.

Comptoir Sud Pacifique is known in the States for its perfumes and candles, but here you can find the company's beach accessories: towels, T-shirts and totes, in bright turquoise and chocolate brown and other surprising combinations. 5 Rue Allard; 94-97-39-91.

Kiwi sells men's and boys' colorful bathing trunks very similar to Vilebrequin's but for half the price. It also stocks women's and girls' maillots and bikinis (you can choose among various styles of tops and bottoms in the same pattern to get the most flattering combo). 34 Rue Allard; 94-97-42-26.

Where to Refuel

Sénequier, on the harbor, has for decades been the café from which to view the port promenade. Quai Jean-Jaurès; 94-97-00-90.

Steps away is Café de Paris, an authentic brasserie. Le Port; 94-97-00-56.

Off the Place des Lices is Palm, opened just last year, where you can eat fresh salads in an enclosed garden shaded by white canvas umbrellas and brightened with madras tablecloths. 26 Rue des Charrons; 94-97-09-99.

For a decadent lunch by the pool, head to Byblos, famous for its celebrity clientele and its nightclub, Les Caves du Roy. Ave. Paul Signac; 94-56-68-00.

Beach Shopping

Club 55 attracts everyone from George Clooney to Naomi Campbell. One reason is its restaurant, where billionaires and beautiful people arrive barefoot to enjoy simple seafood. Another is its excellent gift shop, located in a shack beyond the place where you rent sunning mattresses. Its selection of clothes, hats and totes is as worldly as its clients. Blvd. Patch, Plage de Pampelonne; 94-55-55-55.

Published on 5/1/2004
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