Greenwich Time
With its thick hedges, high fences and long gated drives, Greenwich can be a tough nut to crack for nonresidents. The country clubs and yacht clubs are, of course, private, and even the public beaches require you to buy a day pass through the end of October (available weekdays only at Town Hall, weekends at the Eastern Greenwich Civic Center). But visitors can still get a taste of the town's seductive vibe by strolling the downtown area and spending a little time outdoors. (The area code for all telephone numbers is 203.)
Shopping
Head to the Avenue, but skip the traffic quagmire by parking in one of the lots at the top of the street (just north of the Presbyterian church, on Lafayette Place). You'll have to walk a couple of extra blocks, but it's worth it to avoid endlessly circling for a parking space. In addition to checking out the local outposts of Tiffany & Co., Coach and Saks Fifth Avenue, don't overlook such cute boutiques as Tory Burch, Kate Spade and Scoop NYC. Even more fun are local favorites like Vineyard Vines (145 Greenwich Avenue; 661-1803), which remains loyal to the traditional preppy aesthetic (including ribbon-trimmed canvas totes and polo shirts with the label's distinctive whale logo); Saturnia (39 Lewis Street, just off the Avenue; 625-0390), where Greenwich native Nina Ercklentz's tastes range from classic (Autumn Cashmere) to trendy (Trina Turk, AG jeans); and Richards (359 Greenwich Avenue; 622-0551), a sumptuous fashion emporium (grand marble staircase, lots of cream and blond woods) with all the top designers and a fabulous selection of jewelry. The ambience at Richards is easygoing; it's one of the few places in town where old money mixes comfortably with new. Although not actually on Greenwich Avenue, Julia B. (70 Arch Street; 422-2216) is worth a detour for its crisp, fitted cotton shirts and exquisite custom linens and cashmeres; ditto the impressive Peacock & Beale, formerly Button (125 East Putnam Avenue; 661-3540), where top Greenwich decorator Connie Beale and custom-cabinet designer Christopher Peacock offer an eclectic collection of antiques and decorative objects, as well as their new line of high-end home furnishings. The town has two amazing bookstores. Diane's Books of Greenwich (8A Grigg Street; 869-1515) is a rabbit warren of a shop with the best selection of books I've ever come across, and owner Diane Garrett and her staff are always on-target when it comes to recommendations. Just Books Too, in Old Greenwich (28 Arcadia Road; 637-0707), is another fantastic spot. Owner Jenny Lawton sponsors readings and book signings at her Arcadia Coffee Co., next door.
Dining
Shopping makes me hungry, not that I need an excuse to stop in at Meli-Melo (362 Greenwich Avenue; 629-6153), a cheerful little crêperie across the street from Richards. I often meet friends for lunch at Mediterraneo (366 Greenwich Avenue; 629-4747), a delightful Italian bistro with delicious salads. For dinner, my husband and I love L'Escale (500 Steamboat Road; 661-9800), in the Delamar hotel, overlooking Greenwich Harbor. Rub elbows with the hedge-fund set in the pretty Provençal-style dining room, which opens onto a stone patio alongside the hotel's private dock. In good weather it's fun to watch the motor yachts while dining alfresco. Jean-Louis Gerin is a highly touted local chef, whose eponymous venture, Restaurant Jean-Louis (61 Lewis Street; 622-8450), is one of the best in town. The atmosphere can be a bit precious for our taste, however; given a choice we'd head to Rebeccas, in the once-unfashionable Glenville section (265 Glenville Road; 532-9270), with its Minimalist decor (white linens and brushed steel) and modern American cuisine with French techniques. Among the local top-tier restaurants, the Homestead Inn is another favorite, particularly for special occasions. Chef Thomas Henkelmann serves impressive contemporary French cuisine, and there are eighteen guest rooms as well, in case you want to stay for more (rooms from $250; 420 Field Point Road; 869-7500). On Sunday mornings the after-church crowd recongregates at Versailles (315 Greenwich Avenue; 661-6634) for pastries and cappuccinos.
Don’t Miss
Though you have to get a beach pass in advance ($6 per person plus a $20 parking fee until the end of October), do make time to visit the 147-acre Greenwich Point beach and park (101 Field Point Road; 622-7814), in Old Greenwich. Beach plums, wild roses and pitch pines line the dirt paths that skirt the shoreline. On a clear day you can see the Manhattan skyline from the westernmost tip. In the opposite direction, on Riversville Road in backcountry Greenwich, the 295-acre Audubon sanctuary (613 Riversville Road; 869-5272) offers a variety of family activities, including hawk watches, throughout the fall.
Where to Stay
The eighty-two-room, Mediterranean-style Delamar, located right on Greenwich Harbor, offers luxurious accommodations, as well as full-time dock attendants for guests who arrive by boat (doubles from $359; 500 Steamboat Road; 661-9800).
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