Cape Town: Insider Advice

PHOTO: Mikkel Vang

Telephone and fax numbers listed here should be preceded by 011-27 when dialed from the United States.

When to Go

Because Cape Town is south of the equator, its summer runs from November through March, its winter from June through September. Temperatures rarely climb above seventy-five degrees. Winters are not particularly cold but can be rainy and foggy. If you plan to go on safari on the way to or from Cape Town, however, keep in mind that winter is the best time for game sighting.

Lay of the Land

While the city center is small enough to visit on foot, the surrounding suburbs are best explored by car. The pretty towns along the False Bay coast include Simonstown, a naval port, and Boulders Beach, with its famous penguin colony.

Farther southeast along the South African coast are the resort villages of Gordon's Bay, Betty's Bay and Hermanus, the latter known for its whale-watching opportunities. The gorgeous Winelands are forty-five minutes northeast of Cape Town by car.

Getting Around

Equipped with a rental car and a map, you should be able to navigate Cape Town and the vicinity easily. Taxis are expensive, so you're better off arranging for a car service through your hotel.

Safety

Crime has been a problem in South Africa for several years. For travelers it is most likely to involve theft. Don't walk around with obviously expensive cameras and jewelry, and be aware of your surroundings. Take with you a tri-band GSM or satellite cell phone. In an emergency, dial 107.

Where to Stay

The top choice on the Atlantic seaboard is the impeccably run Ellerman House. It has only eleven rooms and suites plus a private three-bedroom villa with its own swimming pool. The view is inspiring, and the interiors display a century of the best South African art. Even if you don't stay there, try to reserve a table at the excellent restaurant. Double rooms from $540 to $880, suites $1,255, villa $3,870. 180 Kloof Rd., Bantry Bay; 21-430-3200; fax: 21-430-3215; ellerman.co.za.

Cape Grace, near the Waterfront, attracts its share of celebrities (the Clintons stayed here). It has a newly renovated spa, and a young crowd frequents its quayside whiskey bar. Double rooms from $650 to $1,620, suites from $1,200 to $1,940. W. Quay Rd., Waterfront; 21-410-7100; fax: 21-419-7622; capegrace.com.

The Twelve Apostles Hotel sits on a stretch of uninhabited coastline between Camps Bay and the harbor neighborhood of Hout Bay. The decor is a mix of the quirky and the conservative. It has a private screening room and a lovely spa and offers cosseted seclusion as well as easy access to beaches. Double rooms from $580 to $650, suites from $1,150 to $1,850. Victoria Rd., Camps Bay; 21-437-9000; fax: 21-437-9055; 12apostleshotel.com.

The Vineyard Hotel & Spa is a low-key Cape Town treasure in the southern suburb of Newlands, occupying an 18th-century mansion with mountain views. Rooms are mostly unexceptional but comfortable. A new, separate spa wing features a number of stylish suites and a swimming pool. Double rooms from $215 to $585, suites from $430 to $600. Collinton Rd., Newlands; 21-657-4500; fax: 21-657-4501; >vineyard.co.za.

La Residence, in the heart of the Winelands, combines old-world elegance and the comfort of staying in a country home with very attentive hosts. $2,325 for two people, $3,870 for ten. Dirkie Uys St., Franschhoek; 15-793-0150; fax: 15-793-2879; laresidence.co.za.

Where to Eat

Situated in a historic town house full of original detail amid contemporary furniture, the newly opened 95 Keerom is the current darling of the dining crowd. The menu is northern Italian with a focus on fresh local ingredients (the restaurant employs its own fishing boat). 95 Keerom St., central Cape Town; 21-422-0765.

Rozenhof, in an area bordering the city center, has been a consistent pleasure for twenty years. Regulars come to this 19th-century town house for the twice-baked cheese soufflé and the crispy roast duck, but everything is delicious. 18 Kloof St., Gardens; 21-424-1968.

The Cape Colony, in a grand space in the Mount Nelson Hotel, is a great place for a celebration. It serves a mix of Cape Malay-influenced and traditional British dishes. 76 Orange St., central Cape Town; 21-483-1861.

Ginja, with chessboard-painted floors and red walls, is Cape Town's best fusion restaurant. Such dishes as seven-spice avocado ice cream with Arborio-rice-crusted oysters and calf's liver with lime-ginger apple jus were beautifully presented when I visited. 121 Castle St., central Cape Town; 21-426-2368.

At One.Waterfront, in the Cape Grace hotel, chef Bruce Robertson has made a name for himself with a fantastical Ferran Adrià-like playfulness on the plate. He tends to concentrate on local game and South African influences. The dining room has views of the harbor. W. Quay Rd., Waterfront; 21-418-0520.

At the other end of the culinary spectrum is La Perla, a kind of upmarket canteen for Cape Town's glitterati. The menu is standard Italian, with a few trendy additions, but the food reminds you of just how good the staples can be. Corner of Beach Rd. and Church St., Sea Point; 21-434-2471.

The refined Provençal cooking at La Colombe, in the Constantia Uitsig vineyard, is perfect for lunch. A sister restaurant on the property, Constantia Uitsig, has a more traditional atmosphere and heartier fare. Constantia Uitsig Wine Estate, Constantia; 21-794-2390.

It's worth driving to the Winelands just to eat at Le Quartier Français, a small luxury hotel whose restaurant has won awards around the world. Dutch-born chef Margot Janse and her team turn out spectacular menus, as well as impressive simple food served on the hotel's street-side terrace. 16 Huguenot Rd., Franschhoek; 21-876-2151.

Right across the road is Reubens, where young chef Reuben Riffel is fast gaining fame with his squid and chorizo risotto and other dishes. 19 Huguenot Rd., Franschhoek; 21-876-3772.

Where to Take a Break

Capetonians love to linger over coffee. Vida e Caffé is one of the prime people-watching spots. 34 Kloof St., central Cape Town; 21-426-0627.

At Giovanni's, a delicatessen that has an outside coffee bar, the famously surly barista Piero serves, to my mind, the best coffee in Cape Town. 103 Main Rd., Green Point; 21-434-6893.

A good place for a light lunch is La Petite Tarte, a French tearoom with scrumptious pastries and quiches. Cape Qr., Shop A11, 72 Waterkant St., Green Point; 21-425-9077.

The Olympia Café & Deli, on the other side of the peninsula, is renowned for its pastries. The menu also includes fresh fish from the harbor across the road. 138 Main Rd., Kalk Bay; 21-788-6396.

Visit the peach-colored Mount Nelson Hotel, referred to as the Nellie and a Cape Town institution, for afternoon tea or to have a drink at the newly fashionable cocktail bar. 76 Orange St., central Cape Town; 21-483-1000.

Where to Shop

Many local crafts are produced by collectives that help people struggling with AIDS and poverty. Monkeybiz is a successful example of such an organization. The beaded dolls displayed there, made by 450 women in the townships, now sell (for far more money) in cities as distant as London and New York. Call ahead. 43 Rose St., Bo-Kaap; 21-426-0145. The dolls are also available at Carrol Boyes, a boutique whose pewter flatware makes wonderful presents. Shop 6180, Victoria Wharf, Waterfront; 21-424-8263.

African Image has antique tribal beds and other handmade objects, including chickens artfully constructed from plastic shopping bags. 52 Burg St., central Cape Town; 21-423-8385.

The irresistible Heartworks sells local ceramics and handmade crafts. 98 Kloof St., Gardens; 21-424-8419.

Streetwires, a wire-sculpture cooperative, showcases a South African craft form that is often seen on the street (but here there is no pressure to buy). 77 Shortmarket St., central Cape Town; 21-423-3585.

The Long Street Antique Arcade is a little-known treasure housing more than a dozen stores, each with its own specialty (glassware, military memorabilia). 127 Long St., central Cape Town; 72-423-3585.

At Clementina Ceramics, owner Clementina van der Walt has a marvelous selection of artisan work and pottery, including her own sought-after pieces. Don't miss the store's A.R.T Gallery, which Van der Walt opened with ceramist Albie Bailey in 1998. 20 Main Rd., Kalk Bay; 21-788-8718.

People from all over Africa with art, fabric and carvings to sell converge on the Sunday-only Green Point Market, one of many fine craft markets. Green Point Stadium; 21-439-4805.

The Milnerton Flea Market is held on Saturday and Sunday in an out-of-the-way coastal spot west of central Cape Town, but genuine antiques bargains can be found there. Milnerton; 21-556-0239.

When shopping for clothes, try India Jane for women's one-of-a-kind designer items. Cape Qr., 125 Waterkant St., Green Point; 21-421-3517.

Hip Hop has chic party dresses and skirts in African-inspired prints. 12 Cavendish St., Claremont; 21-674-4605.

Women's classic clothing in linen, cotton and silk can be found at Habits. 1 Cavendish Close, Cavendish St., Claremont; 21-671-7330.

Back in central Cape Town, Philip Wulfsohn Jewellery carries custom-designed pieces with a contemporary sensibility. Cape Qr., Shop B12, 72 Waterkant St., Green Point; 21-421-2628.

What to Do

The athletically inclined should visit Table Mountain, with its myriad walking routes. There's also a cable car that offers heavenly views. 21-424-8181. Those more disposed to lounge can head to the white sand beaches of Clifton (called simply First, Second, Third and Fourth Beaches).

Cape Town's fascinating history provides more opportunities to explore. A brief ferry ride from the Waterfront brings you to Robben Island and into the isolated world of the prison where Nelson Mandela and others were confined during the apartheid era. The two-and-a-half-hour tour, conducted by former inmates, offers an absorbing glimpse into the not-so-distant past. Book ahead. 21-413-4217.

The District Six Museum's collection of photographs and personal accounts probes the effects of apartheid on a community forced to abandon its home. 25A Buitenkant St.; 21-461-8745. Arrange a visit to the vibrant townships in the Cape Flats through the Cape Town Tourism Bureau, which organizes group tours but can also put you in touch with your own guide. 21-426-4260; fax: 21-426-4266.

Nature lovers will adore the Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens, which stretch up Table Mountain. 21-799-8783. The fishing village of Kalk Bay is increasingly trendy but retains enough bohemian idiosyncrasy to still be endearing. Watch the fishermen bring in their catch in the small harbor, then stroll through the antiques galleries and eat at one of the many beachfront cafés. If you have a car, be sure to take in Chapman's Peak Drive, a nine-mile thoroughfare between Hout Bay and Noordhoek that is carved into the cliffs 1,900 feet above the sea.

The towns of Franschhoek, Stellenbosch and Paarl, in the Winelands, offer wonderful examples of Cape Dutch and Georgian architecture. They are also close to hundreds of wine estates. If your time is limited, pick one area and focus on two or three estates. Particularly lovely are Meerlust, Rustenberg and Fairview.