Two months after Hurricanes Frances and Jeanne pummeled Palm Beach, the city is back in business. You might think it's the predictions of an increase in serious hurricanes that are sending Palm Beachers over the bridge to the mainland. But the eastern half of West Palm Beachneighborhoods such as Northwood, El Cid, College Park, Flamingo Park, Grandview Heights, Pineapple Park, Southland Park and SoSo (South of Southern Boulevard)has been attracting transplants for several years.
Tiffany design director John Loring, who spent his childhood vacations a stone's throw from Worth Avenue, has bought five houses in the area and heads to a restored 1920s bungalow on weekends and holidays. Other New Yorkers who have chosen the quieter pace west of the Intracoastal Waterway include Architectural Digest editor Paige Rense and Lulu Guinness president Michael Schultz.
But shopping for houses isn't the only reason to go to the mainland. Handsome twenty-nine-year-old antiques dealer Cedric DuPont relocated his eponymous gallery (820 S. Dixie Hwy.) from Coconut Row to West Palm Beach in 2001. His latest shipments include 18th-century French country pieces. Antiques lovers should not miss the inaugural Palm Beach Connoisseur Fair (held from January 6 to January 9 at the Kravis Center for the Performing Arts). It features exceptional art, jewelry, furniture and collectibles.
For the best fashion shopping, head back to Palm Beach, to Worth Avenue and its adjacent alleys, or vias. Saunter over to Via Mizner, where whimsical cobbler Hollywould (No. 36) opened its doors alongside the venerable Italian jeweler Verdura (No. 38) just last season. Not to be outdone, Jimmy Choo opened a Worth Avenue boutique (No. 244) this past October. A few shops down sits a year-old outpost of fine-diamond retailer Graff (No. 221). Farther along, Stubbs & Wootton (No. 323) sells men's and women's needlepoint and velvet slippers. Eye of the Needle (No. 313 ½) always has gold Jack Rogers sandals, as well as heels adorned with semiprecious stones by local designer (and Anheuser-Busch heiress) Lily Holt. And you'll find lots of Lilly Pulitzer here; the official outpost is C. Orrico (336 S. County Rd.). Fans of the line should plan to be in town on November 18, when Donald Trump's private club Mar-a-Lago (1100 S. Ocean Blvd.) hosts a runway showing of the spring 2005 collection to benefit the Children's Place at Home Safe.
Many of Palm Beach's most popular restaurants, such as Bice and Amici, have been around for years. But thanks to twenty-six-year-old Nick Coniglio, whose family owns E. R. Bradley's Saloon, Cucina Dell'Arte (257 Royal Poinciana Way) is now the place to be for both dinner and afterward. Late at night it morphs into a chic lounge. "People used to come down to Palm Beach to hide in their big houses," says Coniglio. "But over the past few years, it's really come alive."
While luxury Palm Beach lodging still revolves around the big threethe Four Seasons Resort Palm Beach (561-582-2800; fourseasons.com), renowned for seam-less service; the plush and welcoming Ritz-Carlton, Palm Beach (561-533-6000; ritzcarlton.com ); and the Breakers (888-273-2537; thebreakers.com, the city's 108-year-old Italian Renaissancestyle mainstaythe newly renovated Brazilian Court (561-655-7740; thebraziliancourt.com has become a magnet for stylish ladies with its branch of Café Boulud and a new Frédéric Fekkai Salon & Spa (561-833-9930). Yes, this town prizes tradition, but some changes are welcome.













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