You know summer is over when you have to call more than a week in advance to book your favorite table at the Wolseley (160 Piccadilly; 011-44-20-7499-6996; thewolseley.com). And I don't mean just at lunchtime. London is enjoying an afternoon-tea revival, which means that powerhouse restaurants are packed all day long. During London Fashion Week (londonfashionweek.co.uk), models linger over their P.M. Lapsang, exchanging gossip and gorging on patisseries. The Berkeley hotel (Wilton Place; 011-44-20-7235-6000; theberkeleyhotellondon.com) probably had these girls in mind when it launched its Prêt-à-Portea menu, with pastries that were inspired by the latest collections (a miniature éclair decorated in Missoni stripes, for instance, or a bijou Fendi chocolate baguette). For weekend tea, you must book a month ahead.
Another highlight of the autumn social season is the Frieze Art Fair (011-44-870-890-0514; friezeartfair.com), in Regents Park, October 2124. This showcase for new artists underscores the city's status at the forefront of the European contemporary-art scene. Last year the fair attracted Madonna, Kate Moss, Gwyneth Paltrow and other celebrities.
In the restaurant world, the Far Eastern trend continues, with Gordon Ramsay's Maze (1013 Grosvenor Sq.; 011-44-20-7107-0000), at the London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square, and its much talked-about take on Asian fusion food. The new Nobu (15 Berkeley St.; 011-44-20-7290-9222) is sure to attract a crowd of young revelers encouraged by the no-booking policy. While waiting for tables, they can hang out in the achingly cool David Collinsdesigned bar.
Around the corner, the grand Dorchester hotel is renovating its ground floor and is about to unveil China Tang (Park Lane; 011-44-20-7629-8888), a new restaurant from David Tang, of the Shanghai Tang and China Club empires. With its Chinese Art Deco design and enticing menu, it will doubtless be a haunt of grown-ups.
The city's antiminimalist vibe forecasts a good turnout for the major Rubens exhibition at the National Gallery (nationalgallery.org.uk), October 26January 15: all that flesh and opulence! Sir Rocco Forte couldn't have chosen a better time to relaunch Brown's Hotel (Albemarle St.; 011-44-20-7493-6020; brownshotel.com), in Mayfair. The oldest hotel in London, it has an immaculate pedigree, having enjoyed the patronage of Queen Victoria and both President Roosevelts. Olga Polizzi's redesign, scheduled to be completed in September, will inject new glamour into this venerable but once staid establishment. The celebrated Angelo Maresca, formerly of the Savoy Grill, will preside over the restaurant, the Grill, and locals are eager to patronize the fumoir-style Terence Donovan Bar, which features portraits by the late photographer.
A longing for the more elaborate style of yore also defines Tom Conran's new venture, at the Bluebird Club & Dining Rooms (350 King's Rd.; 011-44-20-7559-1129). There, he hopes, evenings with Noël Coward tributes, cabaret and big bands will create a 1920s atmosphere and make the club a fixture. And if you need more proof of London's sentimental bent, look no further than the renaissance of the feel-good British musicalwith Mary Poppins (marypoppinsthemusical.co.uk), at the Prince Edward Theatre, and now Elton John and Stephen Daldry's stage adaptation of the film Billy Elliot (billyelliotthemusical.com), written by Lee Hall and a sellout at the Victoria Palace Theatre. These shows will really warm your heart.













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