New Orleans: Having a Big Time

Photo: Rick Lord

The first things any traveler to New Orleans should know are these two words: hot and humid, especially in the summer, but almost anytime except during the winter months. Don't let the weather stop you, however, because there is no other city like New Orleans on the planet. When you are there, you will eat highly seasoned food (often fried and richly sauced), drink a whole lot more than you normally do, listen to all kinds of jazz until all hours of the night and maybe even do a few other things you'd never do at home. New Orleans loves to have a good time, and even though it is still recovering from Hurricane Katrina, your presence will be welcome, you will experience hospitality the likes of which you've never seen before, and you will sip the very essence of the Deep South. Most of the French Quarter has reopened for business or will have by the time you read this. Here are some places to go and things to see and do in the city, and don't avoid the areas affected by the storm and the subsequent flood. As sad as it is to see these things, after doing so, you will better comprehend what the people of New Orleans have been going through and why your visit is so important. Unless otherwise noted, the area code for the telephone numbers that follow is 504.

HOTELS

The best in town for luxury and comfort is the Windsor Court Hotel (888-596-0955). When I was there this past March, it was slightly understaffed, but everyone was as cordial and helpful as could be. "Each day things get a little better," said the woman at the front desk. The hotel was packed for Sunday brunch, too. Soniat House (800-544-8808), on Chartres Street, is much smaller and cozier, more like a private house. It is owned by Rodney and Frances Smith, who also have a nice antiques store adjacent to the hotel.

RESTAURANTS

If you go nowhere else, eat at Galatoire's (525-2021), on Bourbon Street, which is the French Quarter's most famous restaurant. Friday lunch is when you'll see all of patrician New Orleans at play, but getting in isn't easy. It is also incredibly noisy and positively exuberant. A quieter option is early-evening dinner on Sunday. Restaurant August (299-9777) is where John Besh serves his fine and refined Creole food. It is a great-looking place and a great-cooking place. Emeril's Restaurant (528-9393)—do I really have to explain who Emeril is? Didn't think so—is once again going strong. It is in the Warehouse District, on Tchoupitoulas Street at Julia. The crowd is lively; the food is delicious and plentiful. If you are a Paul Prudhomme devotee, go to K-Paul's Louisiana Kitchen (524-7394), on Chartres Street at Conti, for the corn bread alone. Café Adelaide (595-3305), in the Loews Hotel, is great for drinks—have the house cocktail, called the Swizzle—and I hear the food is extremely good too.