Though it’s set high in the arid foothills of the Sangre de Cristo mountains, and the river that runs through it is more like a Zen rock garden these days, Santa Fe puts a new spin on the phrase “cultural desert.” Known for its adobe architecture and Native American and Spanish heritage, the 400-year-old city is also flush with art museums and contemporary galleries, upscale hotels and some of the best dining west of the Pecos. Here are some tips for planning your trip.
Where to Stay
Owners Ira and Sylvia Seret have woven both Southwestern and Far Eastern decorating sensibilities throughout their boutique hotel the Inn of the Five Graces, with surprisingly seamless results. Located on a quiet lane just three blocks south of the Spanish-style plaza at the center of town, the inn consists of a group of adobe homes on one side of the street and a 1930s river-rock building across the way.
Cozying up is easy in each of the property’s twenty-two suites, whether on the custom-made featherbeds or beside the Kiva-style or cobblestone fireplaces that warm many of the sitting rooms. Several baths have Jacuzzi tubs with mosaic murals; other suites have full eat-in kitchens. The Luminaria House, a private two-bedroom casita, provides the most seclusion — and indulgence, with a personal chef and butler guests can call on in the evenings. Suites from $295, breakfast included. Luminaria House from $2,000; butler and/or personal chef, $500 each per night. 150 East De Vargas Street; 505-992-0957; fivegraces.com.
Where to Eat
“If you’ve never had it before, say goodbye to your former self — you will be transformed,” predicts chef James Campbell Caruso as he pours a glass of 1971 Toro Albala Pedro Ximenez at the bar of his rustic tapas restaurant, La Boca. Like most of the flavors on the menu, this rich, figgy sherry hails from Southern Spain. The long list of intriguing dishes at La Boca includes tapas like tuna carpaccio with olives, blood-orange aioli and smoked sea salt, as well as larger entrées like lamb chops with grilled eggplant and mint agridulce (a mix of mint, garlic and honey). Caruso’s lineup changes every few months as the door to Spain’s export market cracks open and more ingredients trickle through from previously unplumbed regions. 72 West Marcy Street, 505-982-3433; labocasantafe.com.
Occupying a charming and historic ranch house built in 1756, Geronimo is consistently celebrated as one of the city’s most romantic restaurants. Chef Eric DiStefano was tapped early in his career by Daniel Boulud as one of the country’s most promising young talents, and the global eclectic fare reflects his sense of adventure. Though the restaurant’s atmosphere speaks of home hospitality and local tradition, the menu jets off to far-flung destinations. Hawaiian tuna tartare with smoked salmon and avocado, Hudson Valley foie gras, and Mexican white prawns with honey and Vietnamese chili are among the highlights. 724 Canyon Road; 505-982-1500; geronimorestaurant.com.
The Compound Restaurant, a Santa Fe favorite since 1966, reopened in 2000 under the direction of chef-owner Mark Kiffin, whose seasonal New American cuisine is inspired by indigenous ingredients, as well as the Mediterranean influences contributed by Spanish colonizers. The menu is revamped top-to-bottom every three months. Summer may bring charred tomato ravioli with sweet-corn flan, while the fall dishes include pumpkin-and-ricotta-filled pansotti with roasted root vegetables, brown butter and sage. In deference to longtime patrons, Kiffin retains five classics from the restaurant’s original menu, including sweetbreads and foie gras with Spanish sherry. Kiffin’s efforts were recognized in 2005 with a James Beard Foundation Award for Best Chef: Southwest. For a special event, fans can book his 27-seat private dining room, equipped with an open kitchen that affords a close-up view of the master at work. 653 Canyon Road; 505-982-4353; compoundrestaurant.com.
In Italian, the word nostrano means “locally grown.” And while some of the ingredients at Trattoria Nostrani are local to Tuscany and Piedmont, fresh vegetables like the heirloom tomatoes, zucchini and arugula are very much home grown — they’re raised in a small organic garden out back. Chef Nelli Maltezos blends these imported and just-picked delicacies in primi piatti like beet ravioli with smoked prosciutto and pistachios, or secondi like roasted squab in a Cinzano reduction, served beside sausage polenta. Executive chef Eric Stapelman has assembled a wine list that’s remarkable in its own right, comprising 4,000 bottles on premises and 5,000 off, with some vintages dating to the 1940s. 304 Johnson Street; 505-983-3800; trattorianostrani.com.
What to Do
Georgia O’Keeffe first visited New Mexico in 1917, at age 29, and was captivated by its arresting landscapes. More than a thousand of her works have been gathered here to form the core collection of the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum, the first U.S. museum to focus on a single woman artist. About fifty of O’Keeffe’s works — such as Calla Lily Turned Away (1923) or Black Mesa Landscape, and New Mexico/Out Back of Marie’s II (1930) — are on view at any given time. Those eager for more can tour the artist’s home and studio, preserved largely as the she left it, in the nearby town of Abiquiu. Georgia O’Keeffe Museum: Admission $8. 217 Johnson Street; 505-946-1000; okeeffemuseum.org. Home and studio in Abiquiu: Tours conducted spring through autumn; reservations required one month in advance. $30. 505-685-4551.
Once a dude ranch, the Santa Fe Opera complex is now home to a spectacular open-air theater redesigned in 1997 by James Polshek, the architect of the Clinton library. The wedge-shaped structure is covered but open on the sides; for past productions of Madama Butterfly, the lights of Los Alamos, twinkling behind the players, have stood in for those of Nagasaki. Also known for its new works (The Letter, by Pulitzer Prize-winning composer Paul Moravec, is commissioned for 2009), the opera draws a mixed crowd of locals and visitors. Come opening weekend (June 26-29 in 2008)for possibly the most elaborate tailgating party in the country, when tables topped with candelabras and silver pop up the parking lot. 800-280-4654; santafeopera.org.
Take in the panoramic views at Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks National Monument, an hour’s drive southwest of Santa Fe. The tent rocks (or “hoodoos,” in proper geological terms), are teepee-shaped formations, striped by layers of volcanic ash, pumice and tuff; the tallest reach up to ninety feet. The 1.2-mile Cave Loop is an easy walk that nonetheless offers an up-close view of the rocks, as well as the native wild flowers, manzanita shrubs and cacti that fringe the path. The 1.5-mile Canyon Trail is a steeper climb, but worth the effort — after navigating a dramatic slot canyon, hikers reach the top of a mesa with incredible vistas of the Jemez and Sangre de Cristo mountains. Morning is the best time to visit the park, before the heat and the crowds reach their peak. $5 per vehicle. 505-761-8700; blm.gov/nm.
Spas
Ten Thousand Waves, modeled on Japanese bath houses, connects its outdoor tubs and twenty-three treatment rooms via contemplative courtyards, walkways and bridges. The most deeply luxurious is the New Ofuro bath, whose open balcony has clear views of the Sangre de Cristo foothills. Those who need more direct intervention in persuading muscles to relax can choose from a variety of massage techniques, including Shiatsu-do, Thai stretching and stone therapy. Super Premium Private bath, 90 minutes, $59 per person; massages from $144. 3451 Hyde Park Road; 505-992-5025, or 505-982-9304 for reservations; tenthousandwaves.com.
Shopping
There’s a simple way to avoid the cheap tchotchkes intended to separate tourists from their money: head straight to the Palace of the Governors, where local Native American artisans sell a bonanza of handmade goods every day. More than 1,000 vendors from New Mexican pueblos or tribes and the city’s Institute of American Indian Arts bring their handiwork to market year-round. The program’s guidelines require that only time-honored materials and methods are to be employed, and the result is authentic, highly skilled work. Rings, bracelets and hefty belt buckles are crafted from solid sterling silver, gold, copper or brass. Stones range beyond turquoise to coral, lapis, malachite, jet and the tiny shell beads that make up traditional heishi necklaces. All pottery is made from local clay and fired outdoors; leather goods, sand paintings and carvings are among the other wares. 8:00 a.m. to dusk daily. 105 West Palace Avenue; 505-476-5112; newmexicoindianart.org.
“Howdy Y’All” beams a neon sign welcoming customers to Back at the Ranch, a mandatory stop for souvenir shoppers looking to bring home some kickin’ handmade cowboy boots (Renée Zellweger picked up a pair herself recently, while on location nearby for the film Appaloosa). Inside the cozy, single-story adobe house, floor to ceiling shelves overflow with more than 700 pairs of women’s, men’s and children’s styles in a cheery tumult of colors and textures. Ready-made pairs start at around $700, but $10,000 is not unheard of for custom designs with intricate hand-tooling or pitiado (a traditional style of embroidery using cactus thread) and exotic skins such as python, gator or shark. 209 East Marcy Street; 888-96-BOOTS; backattheranch.com.
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