While Istanbul is Turkey's most modern and European city, when you're there you are never far from the antique pleasures and seductions of Asia Minor. A great base from which to indulge in them is the A'jia Hotel, a gleaming white 19th-century mansion, the home of a pasha, on the Asian side of the Bosporus. The recently opened hotel has just sixteen rooms, which are furnished in a memorable minimalist decor. But the A'jia's contemporary soul, as represented by goose-feather pillows, LCD televisions and many other modern amenities, is anchored in neoclassical architecture and a timeless setting. Add a superb restaurant featuring a cucina italiana menu prepared with Mediterranean flair--saffron risotto with sea bass, tagliatelle with porcini mushrooms, grilled salmon with a balsamic sauce--and a waterside terrace with a view of the Bosporus and a visit here becomes a unique form of reverie. Sailing ships ply the strait between Europe and Asia as the sun sets over the old city and a crescent moon pours its light onto the shadowy mosques. The prayers of Muslim clerics waft through the warm air; it's easy to hear the ancient world calling. A Turkish delight indeed. Rooms from $386; 011-90-216-413-9300; ajiahotel.com.













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