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Cero Leads Fort Lauderdale's Burgeoning Dining Scene

Ocean abundance and citrus flavors come together in one of the city's most elegant restaurants.

Print Cero Leads Fort Lauderdale's Burgeoning Dining Scene
The dining room at Cero, the seafood restaurant at the new St. Regis in Fort Lauderdale, Florida.
PHOTO: Credit St. Regis
By Alia Akkam

Fort Lauderdale, typically better known for its collegiate spring-break bashes than for fine dining, is growing up – and becoming more elegant by the day. The luxe St. Regis Resort opened its doors here last May, and its oceanfront restaurant, Cero, is among the city’s best.

Just off the spacious, beach-themed lobby, Cero’s dining room is majestic and airy, decorated in a calming palette of sand and gray, with whimsical oversized vases, Jean Cocteau-inspired murals and, most strikingly, uninterrupted views of the Atlantic Ocean’s waves.

The water is a fitting backdrop for the food of executive chef Toby Joseph, who most recently manned the ovens at the St. Regis in Houston. His menu here is predominantly devoted to sustainable seafood dishes. A meal might begin with a taste of tangy sturgeon hummus or a delicate bluefin and hamachi sashimi with a fiery jalapeño gelée and wasabi foam, before moving on to a caramelized peach topped with butter-poached lobster, or plump, perfectly cooked scallops paired with a creamy polenta. In many cases, seafood is matched with one of Florida’s best-known exports – citrus – resulting in dishes like tangy seviche or Kumamoto oysters with grapefruit granita and red-onion confit. Following dinner, fill up on the artisanal cheese course or, better yet, a dessert like the warm beignets filled with Nutella.

Across from the restaurant is the dark, cherrywood-lined Wine Room, with a masculine library vibe perfect for sipping an after-dinner glass of Madeira. Crystal chandeliers hang above the intimate onyx bar, and a collection of books on wine invite perusal. Dedicated oenophiles can request a tour of the impressive 5,000-bottle cellar. For a more pronounced effect, $1,000 will buy you a shot of the 1950 Macallan single-malt scotch.

1 N. Fort Lauderdale Beach Blvd., Fort Lauderdale; 954-302-6460; cerorestaurant.com.

Published on 2/20/2008
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