Sommelier Lee Campbell, of New York City's Provence restaurant, is blessed with one of the most knowledgeable palates in the business. She constantly charms her diners with surprising, spot-on pairings. Here is a glimpse into her particular wine-and-food-matching rationale.
What are your favorite wine-and-food pairings?
I love stinky French cheeses, such as Tomme Roche d'Argental from Haute-Savoie or époisses from Burgundy, with Eric Bordelet's pear cider. Also, last week at the restaurant, I had brandade with a beautiful, richly styled white Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Perfect.
Is white in winter ever a good idea?
Of course! But winter whites have to have a warming richness. So I particularly love southern-German Rieslings from the Pfalz region and Premier Cru Chablis.
What is one of the worst pairing myths you would like to bust?
On Valentine's Day everyone goes for chocolate and Champagne. And it's awful. So much better to choose a tawny port, a Maury, an aged Madeira or even a spirit like Armagnac.
Do you have some foolproof wine-and-food-pairing advice?
Brainstorm three words to describe what you're eating, then find a wine with similar characteristics. Roast chicken, maybe with a rosemary stuffing? Look for a wine that has some earthiness. Wines that would work are a Touraine Sauvignon Blanc, a St. Aubin from Burgundy or a Loire Cabernet Franc if you want a red. But really, no matter what you drink, if you pair fabulous, real wine with wonderful friends and family, everything is a match.
Provence, 38 MacDougal Street; 212-475-7500.
—ALICE FEIRING
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