Dames in Spain

Spanish wines.

PHOTO: Studio D

Winemaking is a male-dominated profession. So how to explain the particularly feminine cast of Rías Baixas, the relatively unheralded white-wine-making area in Galicia, a province on Spain's Atlantic coast? Of thirty-two wineries exporting their wares to the United States, eighteen have female winemakers — a percentage unlikely to be bested anywhere else.

Perhaps it has something to do with the traditional roles: men went out to sea, and women stayed home to tend the land, including the vines. "When the area received D.O. designation, in 1988," says local winemaker Cristina Mantilla, referring to Spain's prestigious wine-region classification, "there were many women in the area very involved in wine. Call it destiny." The aromatic and refreshing wines these women were fated to produce, made from the Albariño grape, are a great choice for people who appreciate Sauvignon Blanc's sassy profile but want something a bit lighter.

Mantilla is the force behind the Maior de Mendoza 2006 ($16), a tightly wound wine full of apricot and peach flavors. Lucía Carballeira can take credit for the spicy, green-apple vibrancy of the Condes de Albarei 2006 ($25). And Katia Alvarez deserves a hand for the tropical tastes of pineapple and kiwi in Martín Códax 2006 ($15). Is there a uniquely female talent at work? Allows Mantilla, "Maybe there's some intuition involved."

—TED LOOS