Buying in Bangkok

You would think I'd be shopped out. After all, I have spent two and a half months every year for the past fifteen years in Bangkok, where my jewelry designs are produced. But I always arrive with an extra, empty suitcase, and inevitably I succeed in filling it. Perhaps it's the climate. You arrive in Bangkok at night, clad in weary black, and when you wake up the next morning in the tropical sunlight, you suddenly need new, bright-colored clothes. You venture out onto the street and are immediately surrounded by temptation. How can you resist the shopkeepers' welcoming smiles? How can you refuse to purchase such gracefully crafted items at such low prices? Bangkok will seduce you, so you may as well give in and start shopping.

Of the city's luxury hotels, the three best situated for intense shopping are the Peninsula and the Oriental, on opposite banks of the Chao Phraya River near the shops of New Road and Silom Road, and the Four Seasons (formerly the Regent), in the heart of the city's commercial center. All have splendid rooms with such superb service that after staying in them, you will be vaguely discontented with every other hotel. And all three are close to Bangkok's wonderful new elevated Sky Train, which lifts you above the city's epic traffic jams.

For first-time arrivals and veterans alike, a visit to the Jim Thompson House ( 011-66-2-216-7368; jimthompson.com ), a few blocks from the National Stadium Sky Train stop, is a must. This compound of carefully preserved teak houses surrounded by fan palms, red ginger and golden bamboo is the former home of the American who launched the export of Thai silk in 1947 and displays his original furnishings. Besides the house museum, there is a shop and a shaded terrace café where you can cool off with lemongrass ice cream. For the widest selection of Jim Thompson designs, visit the flagship store, on Surawong Road (011-66-2-632-8100; open every day from 9 to 9), where the entire range of furnishing fabrics can be seen, in addition to silks and cottons sold by the yard, scarves and handbags.

If you are staying in Bangkok at least three or four days, you can indulge in one of the city's great affordable luxuries: having clothes made for you. Although thousands of tailors and seamstresses offer twenty-four-hour service, satisfaction requires time and multiple fittings. For women's clothes, I recommend Cotton House ( 011-66-2-266-0186-96 ), in a shopping arcade near the Oriental. "Mrs. Reed" (her real, Thai name is Wilaiwan Anusapa) speaks flawless English and will make anything except ball gowns. You can have her use her silk, cotton and linen fabrics or provide your own. Prices range from $38 to $64. For the best results, bring a favorite item for her to copy in a similar material. Thai silk, while gorgeous, has a mind of its own and is best used for slim pants, structured jackets and other items that do not require any drape. To complete your new outfit, head to Tubtim, which has locations at the Oriental ( 011-66-2-237-1034 ) and the Four Seasons ( 011-66-2-250-0741 ) and makes beautiful necklaces using beads of the best quality. Prices for colorful combinations such as coral-turquoise and amethyst-peridot range from $1,000 to $3,000.

For exotic fabrics, Khomapastr ( 011-66-2-260-8889 ), on Nares Road, offers traditional Thai patterns hand-printed on cotton. Have a seamstress make a pair of cigarette pants in one of these fabrics for an unusual evening outfit. The stamped-cotton pillow covers ($9 to $10) make great, easily packed gifts.

Not lightweight but another wonderful gift is the set of nesting red and green lacquered cachepots ($200) at Lamont Contemporary (011-66-2-656-1392), a boutique selling modern furnishing accessories on the third floor of the Gaysorn Plaza shopping mall. Lamont also carries shagreen picture frames.

If you're staying at the Four Seasons, you can walk next door to Peninsula Plaza to visit many of the boutiques frequented by Bangkok's socialites. Bangkok ladies adore the jewelry sold at Frank's (011-66-2-252-1791), on the plaza mezzanine. These pieces—like the ones produced by Bualaad Joaillier (011-66-2-253-9760), on the ground floor of the same building—are not for the shy. They are large, beautifully crafted, diamond-encrusted statement pieces (prices start at $3,000). Searching for emeralds the size of quails' eggs? You will probably find them here. For the antithesis of glitter, Chailai (011-66-2-252-1538) offers heavy, handmade reproductions of traditional silver hill-tribe bangles, priced from $127 to $204.

Handmade silver items are a bargain in Bangkok. Lin Jewelers (011-66-2-234-2819), at 9 New Road, has a vast range of sterling. Outstanding are the place-card holders (from $3 to $15) and picture frames (from $15 to $255). Another terrific source for gifts is Lotus Arts de Vivre (011-66-2-861-1168; www.lotusartsdevivre.com), which has five locations, including one in the Peninsula hotel. The company is best known for its dramatic necklaces and rings, which are made of unusual materials. Lotus decorative home accessories are equally striking. A set of the buffalo-horn-and-silver salad servers ($200) would be a memorable gift.

If Asian antiques are among your interests, you will have many stops to make. Ashwood Gallery (011-66-2-237-0077, extension 314)—a respected dealer with shops in River City, an antiques center easily accessible by free shuttle boat, and in Oriental Place, a shopping arcade near the Oriental hotel—has fine Chinese furniture and sculpture. NeOld (011-66-2-634-0107), on Surawong Road, specializes in antique Thai and Burmese wood carvings and makes beautiful reproductions of old Thai furniture. A pleasant morning can be spent at Lek Gallery (011-66-2-639-5870-2), on a side street near River City. In addition to a large store featuring fine Asian antiques, Lek has a wonderful restaurant on the premises where you can enjoy one of Bangkok's most delicious versions of hor mok, a Kaffir-lime-scented, coconut-based fish curry.

Should you happen to be in Bangkok on a Saturday or Sunday, try to visit the immense Chatuchak Weekend Market, in Chatuchak Park, north of the city. An astonishing array of merchandise is sold there in thousands of stalls. Warning: this excursion is not for delicate sensibilities. You will be subjected to strong odors and surrounded by crowds. Despite this, I never miss it. Large sections of the market are dedicated to orchids, porcelain, handicrafts, sarong fabrics and exotic fruits. And of course you will find scores of stalls selling suitcases!

WHERE TO STAY

Telephone numbers listed below, except for toll-free ones, should be preceded by 011-66-2 when dialed from the United States.

The Peninsula Bangkok Double rooms from $300 to $340, suites from $460 to $1,200. 333 Charoennakorn Rd., Klongsan; 861-2888; 800-223-6800; fax: 861-1112; peninsula.com.

The Oriental, Bangkok Double rooms from $300 to $380, suites from $440 to $2,200. 48 Oriental Ave.; 659-9000; 866-526-6567; fax: 659-0000; mandarinoriental.com.

Four Seasons Hotel Bangkok Double rooms from $250 to $380, suites from $380 to $2,000. 155 Rajadamri Rd.; 250-1000; 800-332-3442; fax: 253-9195; fourseasons.com.

Traveler's tip: because Bangkok is difficult to navigate, ask your concierge to help you arrange a shopping excursion.