"Where's Bunny?" I asked John Rosselli a few days into our recent trip to Southeast Asia. "Buying up," he replied without missing a beat and gave me one of those looks that seem to say, Why would you even ask such a question? We were talking about his wife, Bunny Williams, the interior designer. John is a decorative-furniture guru, and together they own Treillage, a New York design store full of marvelously eclectic antique and new garden accessories and furniture.
A few years ago, my husband and I traveled with them to India and found the glories of Rajasthan all the more wonderful when seen in their company. Each of them has an experienced eye for color and proportion, and their delight in the beauty of everything was infectious. Bunny and John also have an uncanny ability to spot the prize item hidden in every shop, whether it is a piece of fabric with an especially delicious pattern or a utensil so well designed that one must buy a dozen to give as presents. Oh, there is an art to shopping — and these two have mastered it.
So earlier this year, when a group of six friends, including John, Bunny, my husband and me, decided to travel to Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi and Siem Reap, in Cambodia, I was determined to learn some of their shopping secrets. Here's what I found out.
No Dawdling
Bunny and John don't waste any time. With them there is none of the picking-up-and-putting-down routine that plagues most of us amateurs. While I was still trying to decide whether to buy something, Bunny would have made her purchases and would be asking the shop owner if she could order a particular item in another color.
Begin with the Hotel Shops
In the really good Southeast Asian hotels, the boutiques have superior merchandise. The general rule of thumb: the better the hotel, the better the shop. Bunny and John struck gold at Khmer Attitude, the upscale emporium at the Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, in Siem Reap, where they made some major purchases. As I looked around this very attractive store, my eyes went to the shelves; Bunny's went to the floor. She saw that we were standing on a gorgeous tiger-striped Tibetan rug from China. It was one of a pair, and it took her no time to realize that the two would look marvelous in a certain bedroom. While the transaction was being completed, John noticed a stunning rose-colored tourmaline necklace. No discussion needed; he snapped it up, and she wore it at dinner that night.
Most of the shops in the top hotels in this part of Asia also have dressmakers on hand who are skilled at turning out custom-made clothes in hours. Although they may be more expensive than other dressmakers you can find in town, Bunny finds them reliable and convenient. In Bangkok she discovered Sun Silk, in the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers, where she settled on some shirt and jacket styles and ordered a number of garments in different colors. Since the shop stocked only silk, she went across the hall to a men's tailor, where John had already dropped off his favorite shirt to be copied, and purchased several yards of cotton. "I have so little time to shop in New York," she said, "that having custom clothes made at a fraction of what they would cost at home is something I can't pass up."
Don't Hesitate to Ship
Most stores are happy to perform this service; price is calculated by weight. "For you, madam, I ship by the kilo" was a refrain we heard many times as the scales were brought out to weigh Bunny's packages. Her view is that although shipping isn't cheap, it beats lugging packages. And remember, the hotel concierge can usually arrange FedEx shipping.
Use Your Imagination
As we walked down a street in Hanoi past a display of wooden birdhouses, I saw only birdhouses, but John saw lanterns to hang from a ceiling. In a flash he bought two for the entrance hall of the new house he and Bunny are building. On another occasion, at Artisans d'Angkor, the official tourist craft shop in Siem Reap, we saw a pile of bright-colored scarves in a variety of plaids and checks selling for less than a dollar each. It took Bunny no time to figure out that cut in half they would make charming napkins.
Don't Skimp
If you see something wonderful, why not get more than one? Bunny spotted a few silk shirts cut on the bias in a shop in Gaysorn Plaza, in Bangkok. They turned out to be the best shirts we saw on the trip, so when we returned to Bangkok on our way home, Bunny went to the shop and also snapped up the last one they had. "After all," she explained, "I know I probably won't be back this way again any time soon." The same philosophy came into play when she was buying a celadon dinner service at Authentique Interiors, in Ho Chi Minh City. She opted to purchase enough for twenty-four place settings rather than eighteen — a form of insurance against breakage.
Follow Trusted Advisers
Since guidebooks may be outdated or unreliable, try to obtain firsthand advice. We read in a British magazine that there were some good shops on Ton That Thiep Street, in Ho Chi Minh City. It's a small street that took forever to find, and initially it did not seem promising. Not one to give up, Bunny checked out every store, and it paid off. At the very end, we found two sophisticated shops selling lacquer and bone ware: Appeal and Gaya.
Markets Are Great Places to Discover Local Culture
John favors antiques markets, of which there are few in Asia, but Bunny loves all kinds and believes that visiting them is an invaluable way to become familiar with regional crafts. Their wares make for inexpensive and unusual gifts.
Seek Out the Best Sources
Vietnam is famous for its embroidery, and shops everywhere in Hanoi sell linens. While I bought square white pillowcases at many boutiques and ended up with an assortment of mismatched sizes, Bunny spent her time determining which place was the best. For custom-made linens, she found Chi Vang, near our hotel. Located in an elegant former residence, the store specializes in bespoke orders. She examined samples and selected an Egyptian cotton before placing her order. For silks and ready-made linens, including duvet covers, we discovered Tân My. Nguyên Frères has a great selection of items for the home.
Shopping Is Only Part of a Vacation
Bunny once confided that while her idea of a nightmare holiday was a week at the beach with nothing to do, her idea of the perfect holiday was "anywhere one can see and be inspired by beautiful things," whether or not they are for sale.
Where to Shop
Siem Reap, Cambodia
Artisans d'Angkor: Pretty selection of cushions and textiles.Chantiers-Ecoles; 011-85-5-63-963-330. Khmer Attitude: Broad selection of clothes made to order and items for the home. Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor; 1 Vithei Charles de Gaulle; 011-85-5-63-963-888.
Bangkok, Thailand
Sun Silk: Good dressmaker. Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers; 2 Captain Bush Lane; 011-66-2-266-0123, ext. 3252.
Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam
Appeal: Lacquer, crackle ware. 41 Ton That Thiep St.; 011-84-8-821-3614. Authentique Interiors: Celadon ware. 6 Dong Khoi St.; 011-84-8-822-1333. Gaya: Lacquer, bone ware. 39 Ton That Thiep St.; 011-84-8-914-3769.
Hanoi, Vietnam
Chi Vang: Custom-made sheets and pillowcases. 17 Trang Tien St.; 011-84-4-936-0027. Nguyên Frères: Antiques, lacquer ware. 9 Dinh Tien Hoang St.; 011-84-4-926-0128. Tân My: Silk and embroidery. 66 Hang Gai St.; 011-84-4-825-1579.
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