It's true that Argentina's colonial architecture, rich Malbec wine and vibrant tango scene were what motivated my first visit to the country. But ever since the devaluation of its currency, in early 2002, my trips to its capital, Buenos Aires, have been highly focused, die-hard shopping missions. The city's compact neighborhoods are packed with fine well-crafted leather goods — you have to know where to look — and specialized boutiques stocked with the wares of a talented new group of porteños, as this port town's residents are called.
For me, the best base is Recoleta, a fashionable residential district that's home to well-preserved French mansions, the famous cemetery (where Eva Perón is buried) and Buenos Aires' finest art museums. It's also where you can visit the bulk of Argentina's top boutiques, so it's the ideal starting point for a retail bonanza. I prefer to stay at the stately, refurbished 20th-century Palacio Duhau-Park Hyatt Buenos Aires (double rooms from $435; 1661 Avda. Alvear; 888-591-1234; buenosaires.park.hyatt.com), whose 203 rooms and suites are decorated with Persian rugs and crystal chandeliers and come outfitted with Wi-Fi, rain showers and deliciously deep bathtubs. Rather conveniently for a shopaholic like me, the hotel may be entered from both major shopping thoroughfares, Avenida Alvear and Calle Posadas.
To begin my expedition, I exit onto Posadas and head right to Breeder's Luxury (No. 1321; 011-54-11-4815-6326). This jewel box of a shop is a good first stop, allowing me to splurge on serious mink, Persian lamb, fox and chinchilla furs for men and women (ready-to-wear or custom-made, but expect a three- or four-day wait for the latter), as well as reasonably priced handbags in crocodile (from $1,000) and lizard skin (from $300). Although you may be able to score bigger savings at less polished stores in the busy Microcentro neighborhood, Breeder's Luxury is a sure bet in terms of quality.
From Calle Posadas, I turn left on Rodríguez Peña to visit one of my favorite stores, Tramando (No. 1973; 011-54-11-4811-0465; tramando.com), owned by the poster child for Argentina's fresh breed of creatives, textile designer and former photographer Martín Churba. He delivers cleverly designed multihued clothing and eclectic home accessories using intricately woven fabrics and varied materials; the results, such as a crocheted wool and chiffon dress with gold lamé pleating or bright sweater-like vase coverings, are striking. Some designs are so avant-garde, it's hard to figure out exactly how to wear them; fortunately, the sales staff is ready to assist with the numerous ties, zips and belts.
Turning onto the next block, Avenida Alvear, I walk straight into the Galería Promenade, an indoor shopping strip adjacent to the famous Alvear Palace Hotel. The intimate Celedonio (Unit 39, 1883 Avda. Alvear; 011-54-11-4809-0046; celedonio.net) -- where onetime architect Celedonio Lohidoy sells ornate jewelry made of moonstone, baroque pearls, labradorite and coral, as well as some with feathers and wire — is a haven amid the many touristy shops in the galería. I love taking my time when choosing one of his bolder necklace designs, to be paired with a simple black dress. (Interestingly, Lohidoy also created the brand of toiletries I found in my hotel room.) Exiting the galería, I reemerge on Alvear and head to nearby La Dolfina (No. 1315; 011-54-11-4815-2698; ladolfina.com), a men's clothing and polo accessories shop founded by Argentina's top player, Adolfo Cambiaso, where I pick up a bona fide polo shirt for my boyfriend.
From Alvear I turn toward Avenida Presidente Quintana to find Evangelina Bomparola (No. 20; 011-54-11-4814-2553; evangelinabomparola.com), the small Recoleta showroom that the Buenos Aires social darling, who used to work for Hermès, opened in 2003. The posh shop overflows with cocktail dresses and one-of-a-kind evening gowns made of pure silk, wool, cashmere and even vintage materials sourced at flea markets around the world.
Where Avenida Quintana meets Calle Ayacucho, I find Arandú (1924 Calle Ayacucho; 011-54-11-4800-1575; tal-arandu.com), a sprawling two-story bastion of all things Argentine. Chockablock with housewares and sporting goods made by artisans on the pampas of Salta and Cordóba, the store caters to aficionados of country style. The first floor is filled with alpaca silver trays, shelves of riding boots and cowhide bags; the second is dedicated to hunting and polo and is so exquisite, it makes me yearn for a lifestyle that would require the leather rifle covers or finely crafted polo saddles on display.
At the southern end of Ayacucho, on Avenida de Libertador, is the Patio Bullrich mall (No. 750; 011-54-11-4814-7400; www.shoppingbullrich.com.ar) . While I usually avoid the kind of generic chain stores found in shopping centers in the States, here they look and feel so different — and I don't think it's my imagination or the glass of Torrontes I had at lunch at the nearby Italian restaurant Sottovoce (No. 1098; 011-54-11-4807-6691; sottovoceristorante.com.ar) . I have received more compliments on my long bohemian tiered acetate skirts from Rapsodia (011-54-11-4814-7458; www.rapsodia.com.ar) than on anything else in my closet, and they cost only about seventy dollars each. Don't be put off by the blaring dance music: many of the shop's feminine, romantic sweaters, sundresses and boots look wonderful on women of all ages, and the vast selection of jeans always includes at least one winning pair. To dress up my denim, I pick up abeaded top at Trosman (011-54-11-4814-7411; trosman.com) or one of its signature necklaces made of jersey.
From Patio Bullrich, I head west a few blocks and turn right onto Calle Libertad to investigate the candy-colored ballet flats and heels at De María (No. 1655; 011-54-11-4815-5001) — some so creatively shaped, they're like small modern sculptures. Just northwest on Calle Arenales is the most spectacular shoe store in the entire country, if not the world. (Full disclosure: I am unnaturally attached to tango shoes.) To get to this heel oasis, named Comme Il Faut (No. 1239; 011-54-11-4815-5690; www.commeilfaut.com.ar), I have to turn into a small courtyard called Rue des Artisans, off Arenales, and walk up a flight of stairs; I then sit on a sofa in the tiny room while the shopkeeper brings forth box upon box of whatever is available in my size. On other visits, I have left with a pair of navy blue, black, red and fluorescent pink sling-backs and some fire-engine-red velvet pumps that were too Evita to pass up.
Just down the road is banker turned home-accessories designer Marcelo Lucini's Airedelsur (No. 1618, 9th floor; 011-54-11-5811-3640; www.airedelsur.com), which also sells the much sought-after alpaca silver trays, plus pitchers and serving tools with goat-, cow- and deer-horn handles (they go for much more at Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman). His hand-stitched leather belts with onyx and alpaca buckles are hard to find outside Argentina. The last time I was in town I bought three, with the intention of giving two as gifts, but parting with any of them appears unlikely.
If I'm in search of a perfectly tailored leather jacket, I leave Recoleta and take a five-minute cab ride to Bettina Rizzi (547 Paraguay; 011-54-11-4313-5307; bettinarizzi.com) . This atelier is one block off hectic Calle Florida, a busy pedestrian strip lined with chain stores (Zara, Mango). The unassuming storefront is easy to miss, but keep looking: Rizzi is a master of her trade; she can take your measurements, expertly create the leather jacket of your dreams and deliver it to your hotel the same day. Nonshedding rex-rabbit fur coats start at $900, sheared-nutria reversible coats go for $1,500 (they would run you at least $4,000 in the States), and chinchillas cost $5,000 and up (a whopping $15,000 back home). Bring photos.
Another area worth strolling in is Palermo Soho, the hip neighborhood within the bustling Palermo Viejo district, just a short taxi ride across town from Recoleta. I like to be dropped off at Qara (1548 Calle Gurruchaga; 011-54-11-4834-6361; qara.com), the store New Yorker Amanda Knauer launched two years ago and the ideal place to find colorful little handbags. I love the Justina clutch, whose useful hand strap is affixed to the back. Down the street is 28 Sport (No. 1481; 011-54-11-4833-4287; 28sport.com), a cool spot selling unisex shoes modeled on 1950s sporting footwear. I then take Honduras to Julián álvarez and enter Min Agostini (No. 1419; 011-54-11-4833-7563; minagostini.com.ar) to look for a shantung-silk strapless evening gown with an artistically gathered train. Jazmin "Min" Agostini, the designer, is a former architect whose dramatic couture pieces, made of linen and silk, are characterized by their asymmetry and swirling designs. Her custom dresses are guaranteed standouts at any black-tie affair.
Thoroughly exhausted, not to mention considerably weighed down, I call my final taxi to head back to the hotel. While loading my bags into the cab, I can't help but marvel at my new treasures, confident of their impending "Where did you get that?" reaction back in the States.
INSIDER SHOPPING TIPS
Beware of theft
As in many large cities, it is wise not to wear attention-getting jewelry or look at a map in public. While on my most recent shopping adventure, I had my BlackBerry stolen right out of my hands by someone on a motorbike.
Consider hiring a car and driver
The daily rates for private cars are far lower than in most American cities, and you'll certainly be safer. Even if you don't use a driver, avoid taking random cabs off the street, as they may not be licensed. Instead, have your concierge, waiter or salesperson call you a radio taxi.
Ask in stores about the Tax-Free discount
Visitors who purchase more than seventy dollars in Argentine-produced goods are entitled to a 15 percent savings on departure at the airport. Fill out the forms and obtain your customs stamps before checking your luggage (the officer may ask to see your goods). Allow some time for this; it's as complicated as it sounds.
Note weekend and holiday hours
With the exception of stores in malls, the shops in Recoleta and Palermo Viejo do not open until 2 p.m. on Saturday and are closed on Sunday. Argentina has many national holidays, so consult a calendar before you book your flights.
Plan your trip around seasonal sales and bargains
The best time to shop for leather and fur is during the Argentine summer: December, January and February. Merchandise can often be reduced by as much as half.
