Therme Vals, in the Alpine village of Vals, a two-and-a- half-hour drive from Zurich, is a haven for purists who love hiking in the mountains and unwinding afterward in one of the spa's six thermal springs, located both indoors and outdoors. The spa reopened in 1996 after star Swiss architect Peter Zumthor replaced a 1960s structure with an ultramodern bathing complex, using 60,000 slabs of local quartzite. After soaking, you can indulge in massage and skin-care treatments and then dine at the sleek restaurant. Vals has 140 guest rooms housed in four buildings, but most are outdated, so it's essential to book one in the renovated Temporaries building, decorated in Zumthor's spare style. Double rooms from $150. 011-41-81-926-80-80; therme-vals.ch.













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